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Why Abersoch has become one of the most sought-after staycation spots
Swerving flight delays and airport chaos, Dominique Afacan discovers the North Wales hotspot beloved by those in the know.
I have given up on going abroad, at least for now. With two young children, the hassle of flight delays, lost car seats, and the inevitable disappointment of a freezing pool and a shed-like kids club is too much. Add fuel shortages and the financial hit of leaving the country, and North Wales became an easy first choice: wild, beautiful, and far more affordable than places closer to London, like the Cotswolds.
The seaside town of Abersoch on the Llyn Peninsula was already on my radar because influencer Molly Mae Hague visited there to destress in her recent docu-series Behind It All, which reportedly caused a 208 per cent spike in visitors. When I found an immaculate bungalow in nearby Llanbedrog, I decided to give it a try. Just five minutes down the road from Abersoch, it was close enough to dip in but far enough to avoid the summer crowds when the so-called Welsh Riviera is in full swing.
Our peaceful stone bungalow was perfect for our multi-generational trip with my parents. It had no stairs, provided travel cots and high chairs, and had gardens for everyone to escape when needed. A resident woodpecker reminded us we had truly escaped city life. A short walk away, Llanbedrog beach was an instant hit: wide, clean, and quieter than Abersoch's beaches, where beach huts change hands for upwards of £250,000. At our understated local, the kids played in the sand while the adults enjoyed tea and scones or a gin and tonic at Aqua, the chilled beach bar.
Hidden gems in Llanbedrog
The tiny village is also home to Plas Glyn-Y Weddw, an art gallery housed in a Gothic mansion. It is an unlikely place to find such a grand tourist attraction, drawing 140,000 visitors a year. In summer, the venue hosts outdoor theatre performances and family activities. The gallery's new cafe, which looks like a spaceship, is well worth a visit in its own right. We went twice.
As a dedicated celebrity follower, I could not spend all my time at art galleries and watching my kids paddle in the Irish Sea. I needed to follow Molly Mae's footsteps, so I booked us into The Warren holiday resort for an early dinner. The resort itself felt a little soulless, like an eerily silent Centre Parcs, but the restaurant was buzzing by 5pm. From our table, we peered out over St Tudwal's, the private island owned by Bear Grylls, and enjoyed fish and chips while the waitress gave my eldest his first Welsh lesson.
Back in Llanbedrog, Tremfan Hall, a huge house overlooking Cardigan Bay, came highly recommended for dinner, but with two young boys, we opted for simpler pleasures. Abersoch delivered with family-run Crust Pizzeria on the harbour front and Manana on the high street, both excellent with queues out the door. We also planned to go to The Potted Lobster, having had a fantastic meal at its sister restaurant in Northumberland, but it booked up quickly, so be warned.
A magical train journey
With two train-obsessed boys, the Ffestiniog Railway, the world's oldest narrow gauge railway, was a non-negotiable day trip. I was not sold initially, but it turned out to be a highlight. The steam engines climb high into the mountains of Snowdonia, passing forests, lakes, and waterfalls. It was magical, and the staff were some of the friendliest people I have ever encountered.
There was far more to explore, such as boat trips, dolphin-spotting, crabbing at sunset, and pony trekking, but the draw of the slow life, with jigsaws in the bungalow and afternoon naps, was strong. No matter, I will be back. Who needs to get on a flight when you have a whole new country to explore on your doorstep?
How to do it
Abersoch is difficult to access via public transport. The nearest railway station is Pwllheli, accessible via Transport for Wales branch lines, which is a 15-minute drive or 30-minute bus away. Otherwise, it is a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Birmingham and a six-hour drive from London or Edinburgh.
Where to stay
We stayed at the charming Llyn Orta cottage in Llanbedrog, booked through Holiday Cottages. It sleeps six people across three bedrooms. A four-night stay, beginning on a Friday, starts at £684.
