Guinness Open Gate Brewery London Review: A Multi-Million Pound Letdown
After years of anticipation and delays, the Guinness Open Gate Brewery has finally opened its doors in the heart of Covent Garden, occupying some of London's most expensive real estate. This multi-million pound temple to "the black stuff" was expected to be a pilgrimage site for stout enthusiasts, but the reality has proven to be rather underwhelming according to recent reviews.
A Disjointed Experience Across Multiple Sites
Rather than offering a cohesive Willy Wonka-style experience, the Open Gate Brewery is spread across several streets with different elements scattered about. There's a gift shop here, a restaurant there, and a street stall elsewhere, creating a fragmented visitor experience that lacks the immersive quality one might expect from such a high-profile venture.
The layout feels particularly puzzling given the substantial investment that must have been required to secure this prime West End location and construct purpose-built facilities. One might imagine the countless corporate meetings and bureaucratic hurdles that needed to be overcome to bring this project to fruition, only for the result to feel somewhat disconnected.
Restaurants That Forget Their Guinness Roots
The site features two main dining options - The Porter's Table and Gilroy's Loft - helmed by executive chef Pip Lacey, who serves what has been described as "non-challenging yet hearty menus." There's also a courtyard pie stall operated by Calum Franklin. Despite these multiple food offerings, the restaurants surprisingly lack any strong Guinness branding or thematic elements.
Instead of the dark, sleek, Irish-feeling establishment one might anticipate, The Porter's Table reportedly feels more like a Google headquarters staff room. There are no branded colours, no menu pairings suggesting how dishes might complement Guinness, and no concerted effort to promote the signature stout that gives the venue its name.
Food That Fails to Impress
The culinary offerings have received mixed reviews at best. The Guinness soda bread arrives in what has been described as a "weird iron safe" container, though the bread itself earns praise for being soft, crusty, and scone-like. Other dishes prove less successful.
A Porter's beer melt with Paxton & Whitfield cheese on brioche has been compared unfavourably to a McDonald's cheeseburger made with toast, featuring an ungenerous patty despite decent seasoning. Ribeye and half-chicken dishes are described as good but unmemorable, requiring additional Guinness-peppercorn sauces and fermented chilli (at an extra £4.50 for small pots) to prevent dryness.
The dessert offering called The Three Stouts has been dismissed as "little more than some sponge with a bit of cream and chocolate caramel atop" - what one critic termed "absolute 'will-this-do?' nonsense."
Puzzling Design and Practical Issues
Several design choices have raised eyebrows, including the placement of toilets on the fifth floor of the ground-floor restaurant, accessible only by lift - prompting the observation that "Guinness, let the record show, cannot organise a piss-up in a brewery."
The presence of a huge, noisy open kitchen seems disproportionate for a menu that essentially offers chicken and chips. Meanwhile, the gift shop has been criticised for containing "literally nothing worth buying," and the overall experience has left some visitors feeling less enthusiastic about the Guinness brand than when they arrived.
Missed Opportunities for Guinness Celebration
Perhaps most surprisingly for a venue bearing the Guinness name, there appears to be little celebration of the iconic stout. Despite brewing small-batch ales on site, there's reportedly "no real push to sell them" within the restaurants. The experience lacks the expected Irish atmosphere, with no servers making a fuss over the perfect Guinness pour or suggesting pairings with specific meats and cheeses.
As one reviewer noted, the nearby Devonshire pub in Piccadilly seems to be doing more for the image of Guinness than this multi-million pound corporate extravaganza. For tourists visiting London, alternative attractions like Madame Tussauds might offer better value and a more coherent experience.
The Guinness Open Gate Brewery is located at 28 Shelton Street, London WC2, with opening hours varying throughout the week. Expect to pay around £50 per person for three courses, plus additional costs for drinks and service.
