Italy Launches Investigation into Beauty Brands Over Alleged Covert Marketing to Young Girls
Italian competition authorities have initiated a formal investigation into two major beauty brands, Sephora and Benefit Cosmetics, over serious concerns regarding their marketing practices directed at very young girls. The regulator fears that these companies may be employing what it describes as "covert marketing strategies" that could potentially fuel an unhealthy obsession with skincare among minors, a phenomenon increasingly referred to as "cosmeticorexia."
Regulator's Concerns Over 'Cosmeticorexia' and Vulnerable Audiences
The Italian Competition Authority has explicitly stated that its investigation focuses on promotions for skincare products, including face masks, serums, and anti-ageing creams, which in some instances appear to target girls under the age of ten. The authority has drawn a direct link between these marketing practices and the broader issue of cosmeticorexia, which denotes an obsessive preoccupation with achieving flawless skin among young people.
The watchdog has characterised the alleged strategy as "particularly insidious," noting that it involves the use of very young micro-influencers who encourage compulsive purchases of cosmetics among this particularly vulnerable demographic. This approach, according to the regulator, raises significant ethical and health concerns.
Inspections and the 'Sephora Kids' Phenomenon
On Thursday, officials from the authority, assisted by the Italian financial police, carried out inspections at the premises of Sephora Italia and other offices belonging to LVMH, the French luxury group that owns both Sephora and Benefit Cosmetics. This action underscores the seriousness with which the allegations are being treated.
The investigation comes against the backdrop of the rising "Sephora kids" trend, where upmarket beauty brands traditionally aimed at adult women have surged in popularity among very young social media users. This catch-all phrase describes the intense attachment between preteen children and high-end beauty products, a trend largely driven by skincare content produced by beauty influencers, many of whom are tweens and teens themselves.
Platforms like TikTok and Instagram are saturated with videos of young girls and teenagers discussing skincare routines and makeup, creating a powerful peer-driven market. However, Sephora has previously sought to distance itself from this trend. Artemis Patrick, the chief executive of Sephora North America, stated in a 2024 interview that "we do not market to this audience."
Health Warnings and Industry Backlash
The trend has met with considerable backlash from dermatologists and health professionals. Experts argue that children do not require sophisticated beauty products and that an early, intense focus on appearance can create significant anxiety over skin aesthetics. They further warn that children's skin is more sensitive, and exposing it to unnecessary chemicals increases the risks of irritation and sensitisation later in life.
The Italian regulator's investigation is specifically examining whether important product information—such as warnings and precautions for cosmetics not intended for or tested on minors—may have been omitted or presented in a misleading manner. While it is not illegal to sell such products to underage customers, the authority has emphasised that "the frequent and combined use of a wide range of cosmetics by minors, without proper awareness, may be harmful to their health."
Corporate Response and Regulatory Compliance
In response to the investigation, LVMH has issued a statement confirming that Sephora, Benefit, and the parent company will "fully cooperate with the authorities." The group declined to comment further but added, "All the companies reaffirm their strict compliance with applicable Italian regulations." This case highlights growing global scrutiny over marketing practices targeting children and adolescents, particularly in the beauty and wellness sectors, and their potential impact on mental and physical health.
