For many enthusiasts, skiing evokes images of adrenaline-fueled descents down challenging black runs or daring couloirs, often shared as tales of bravery. Yet, a growing number of skiers find true joy in a more serene approach, prioritising the quiet beauty of mountain landscapes and the simple pleasures of the sport. This philosophy embraces the calm of chairlift ascents, the transformative effect of snow-capped peaks under clear blue skies, and graceful descents that focus on dignity and injury-free enjoyment, redefining fun on the piste.
Escape to Corvara in Alta Badia
Seeking respite from a grey and wet English January, I embarked on a long weekend to Corvara, part of the wider Alta Badia resort in the Italian Dolomites, which is set to host the Winter Olympics in February 2026. As a first-time skier in Italy, my goals were simple: rise above the clouds, indulge in Aperol spritz and red wine, and savour plenty of pasta to power through to spring.
Luxury at Hotel Sassongher
A winding drive through the Dolomites' spectacular rock formations led to Hotel Sassongher, a five-star retreat managed by the same family since 1933. No luxury is spared for skiers here, featuring a rooftop Jacuzzi, a sauna with panoramic views, an indoor pool, enormous four-poster beds, and balconies overlooking the cobblestone village and slopes beyond.
After settling in at dusk, we enjoyed an aperitif in the wood-panelled bar, accompanied by a pianist and greeted by suited staff who treated guests like old friends—many of whom are repeat visitors. The evening began with local Prosecco, followed by dinner in one of the three traditional Ladin stubes, featuring lobster pasta, rack of lamb with artichoke, local pinot noir, and tiramisu from a lavish dessert table.
Skiing and Gourmet Delights
Even before hitting the slopes, the break unfolded as a gourmet safari through the Dolomites, with skiing filling the gaps between meals. Alta Badia forms one of the world's largest ski areas, including the popular Sellaronda circuit for day-long scenic routes. Corvara is renowned for its network of gentle, wide blue runs and some of the Alps' best slope-side restaurants, attracting Michelin-starred chefs and food enthusiasts globally.
The region's centuries-old Ladin cuisine shines with dishes like 'la panicia' (barley soup), 'turtres' (fried pastries with spinach or cabbage), and 'cajincí' (ravioli with spinach and cottage cheese). The annual A Taste for Skiing initiative highlights this culinary scene, with top chefs like Massimiliano Alajmo and Viviana Varese showcasing their skills in mountain restaurants.
Personalised Experiences and Scenic Dining
Guided by Dream Beyond, which offers personalised itineraries across Italy, we explored the slopes and arrived at Piz Arlara, a family-run restaurant at 2,040 metres above Corvara. With blue runs in and out, deck chairs for relaxation, and breathtaking Alpine views, it serves regional specialties such as dumplings, spätzle, homemade ravioli, and venison pasta, paired with local wines like pinot noir.
After a leisurely lunch with an Aperol spritz, we opted for a chairlift descent, though blue and red routes are available for the energetic. The late afternoon was spent in the Jacuzzi, watching the mountains turn pink at sunset, followed by an evening feast in the stube, including a memorable beef fillet studded with lard.
Final Moments and Departure
On our last morning, fresh snow fell gently, creating quieter slopes after days of blue skies. Refreshed and restored, we felt confident we'd never be hungry again, but Hotel Sassongher ensured a proper Sunday lunch before departure. The final feast featured spaghetti with Neapolitan tomatoes, pinot noir, coffee, and a tray of exquisite desserts, so delightful that one guest attempted to take hers back to London.
Corvara, with its blend of serene skiing, gourmet dining, and luxury stays, embodies everything skiing should be—a perfect escape for those seeking beauty and relaxation on the slopes.
