For British families seeking a sun-drenched French holiday that combines wide sandy beaches, incredible seafood, and a more affordable price tag, the Charente-Maritime region offers a compelling alternative to its more famous neighbours. Located just north of the Gironde estuary and an hour south of the well-trodden resorts of Île de Ré and La Rochelle, this coastal area provides a less manicured, more authentic experience without sacrificing any of the allure.
A Feast for the Senses: Seafood Spectacles and Market Marvels
The culinary scene here is a major draw, centred around the region's famed oyster beds. In the working village of La Tremblade, along the avenue known as La Grève, visitors can witness the dramatic tradition of moules à l'éclade. This unique method, developed by local oyster farmers, involves piling long, skinny pine needles over a board of mussels and setting them alight. The short-lived blaze cooks the shellfish in their own juices, resulting in succulent, smoky molluscs—a true pre-dinner spectacle.
For self-catering visitors, a trip to the Marché Central de Royan is essential. Completed in 1956, this futuristic market hall features a 50-metre-span dome lit by space-age skylights. Inside, the stalls are laden with local treasures: creamy Brillat-Savarin cheese, fruity Comté, the regional terrine known as le grillon charentais, and an abundance of fresh produce. Resisting the stallholders' persuasive "Avec ceci?" is a challenge in itself.
Architectural Wonders and Endless Beaches
A short stroll from the market reveals another post-war architectural gem: the Église Notre-Dame de Royan. Its striking concrete belltower and sharp angular structure are extraordinary. The interior, with its V-shaped pillars and triangular stained-glass window, is said to have inspired the Dragonstone audience hall in Game of Thrones.
When it comes to coastlines, the region spoils visitors for choice. Families can head to Plage Le Vieux Phare, overlooked by the cartoon-like red-and-white Phare de la Coubre lighthouse, for bodyboarding on Atlantic waves. For a more sedate day, a trip to the Île d'Oléron—twice the breadth of Île de Ré—leads to the beautiful crescent of Plage de Boyardville. Here, a shallow lagoon is perfect for paddling, with the distant silhouette of the historic Fort Boyard on the horizon. The fort, completed in 1857, is a deceptive 68 metres long and could once house 250 soldiers.
Charming Villages and a Final Culinary Verdict
The charm extends to picturesque villages like Mornac-sur-Seudre, with its white-washed houses and blooming wisteria, offering a quieter echo of Île de Ré's aesthetic. However, La Tremblade remains a favourite for many, especially for a final seafood feast. At restaurants like La Cabane de la Grand-Mère, mussels are prepared differently as moules à la brasero—marinated with herbs, onions, and white wine before being cooked on a griddle. While these may win the taste test for some, the local oyster farmers maintain that nothing beats the sheer, flaming spectacle of the traditional éclade.
With its combination of dramatic food traditions, stunning mid-century architecture, vast pine forests, and family-friendly beaches, Charente-Maritime presents a richly rewarding and more budget-conscious French coastal holiday. The region proves you don't need to follow the crowds to find authentic flavour and lasting memories.
