A Different Kind of Girls’ Weekend: Adventure and Creativity in Carmarthenshire
Curated getaways in south-west Wales are offering a refreshing alternative to traditional group trips, focusing on wellbeing, craft, and meaningful connection amidst beautiful scenery. This trend sees women increasingly swapping prosecco-fuelled weekends for experiences that nurture new skills and deeper bonds.
The Creative Heart of a Welsh Market Town
The scent of hand-poured candles filled the air in the Little Welsh Dresser, one of Llandeilo's many arts and crafts shops. This vibrant Welsh market town is a renowned creative hub, famous for weaving the iconic Dinefwr wool blankets and boasting numerous galleries and antique stores. It's a picturesque place for a leisurely wander. Our attention was captured by rows of handmade cards and mugs stamped with evocative Welsh words. One stood out: Cwtch. Pronounced "kutch," it defies direct English translation. "It's a big, warm hug," explained the shop owner, "but also it's a feeling, a sense of belonging." This word would come to perfectly encapsulate the essence of our entire weekend.
Discovering 'The Sisterhood' Breaks
Travelling with my friend Anna, we were in Carmarthenshire to experience Discover Carmarthenshire's new "The Sisterhood" breaks. These trips tap into the growing demand for women-focused travel that prioritises personal growth and wellbeing over conventional revelry. For those seeking pre-curated stays, the website features a 'Sisterhood Sorted' section. Alternatively, groups of any size can design a bespoke itinerary by selecting a region—west, central, or coastal Carmarthenshire—choosing accommodation from barns to glamping pods, and then picking from a menu of experiences led by Wild Kin. This collective includes potters, painters, coastal foragers, horse whisperers, walking guides, makers, and massage therapists.
Rustic Retreat at Ardderfin Farmhouse
Our base was Ardderfin Farmhouse on the outskirts of historic Carmarthen, a charming rustic stone cottage complete with a clawfoot bath and a substantial open fireplace. Its cosy ambiance strongly reminded us of the idyllic cottage featured in the film The Holiday. After settling in, we drove fifteen minutes into town for dinner at The New Curiosity, a weekends-only restaurant with a seasonal menu run by Rachel Williams and her husband-chef, Daniel. "Carmarthen is still a community of farmers, and the Women's Institute remains massive here," Rachel noted, emphasising the local spirit of community. "Everyone at our tables tends to know each other – my home is your home," she said, as I enjoyed a perfectly cooked Welsh sirloin steak.
Mindful Pottery with the 'Dutch Potter on the Hill'
Saturday morning brought low winter sun, casting long silhouettes of skeletal trees across frosted fields as we journeyed into the hills. Our destination was the Siramik pottery studio, run by Yoka Kilkelly, affectionately known as the "Dutch potter on the hill," from a converted barn on a sheep farm. Inside, the slate stone walls bore the artistic spatters of clay. We began with wedging—kneading the clay to soften it, ensure consistent texture, and remove air bubbles. It was a physically demanding task. "No potter has bingo wings," Yoka smiled, as we laboured while she made her clay look as pliable as bread dough. After portioning our clay, we thwacked a lump onto the potter's wheel, coaxing it into shape as it spun. "A person's personality shapes their pot," Yoka observed. My efforts morphed into coffee cups, while Anna's transformed into a bowl, later daubed with glaze. "It's a mindful practice," Yoka added. With shards of winter sun piercing the studio windows and the earthy clay spinning in my palms, I felt profoundly present and centred.
Coastal Walks and Estuary Serenity
In the afternoon, we drove towards Llansteffan for a bracing walk along the sands of the Tywi estuary. The crenelated shadow of 800-year-old Llansteffan Castle stood sentinel atop a hill. The tide had receded, leaving a trail of bone-white cockle shells and shallow pools that mirrored the pinkening sunset. Anna, an avid birder, scanned the landscape for curlews and egrets, camera poised. It was a rare pleasure to see her so completely in her element, immersed in the natural beauty of the Welsh coast.
Yoga, Wreath-Making, and the Meaning of Chwaeroliaeth
Returning to Ardderfin Farmhouse, we found our next activity prepared. Lowri Johnston, a yoga teacher and organic flower farmer from nearby Nantgaredig, awaited us. We lit the fire in the living room, and she guided us through a gentle, restorative yoga session. Afterwards, fuelled by delicious brownies from a local bakery, she taught us to craft willow wreaths, gilded with ivy, eucalyptus, pine cones, and dried dahlias foraged from her own farm. We slowly warmed the willow to coax it into a perfect circle. "I love doing this because it embeds people in the seasons and the land," Lowri shared. She introduced us to the Welsh word for sisterhood: chwaeroliaeth. "It means 'sisters together.' In Wales, we have a rich history of women gathering, especially while making food—milking, churning butter, that sort of communal work."
Gourmet Picnics and Fireside Conversations
After Lowri departed, Anna and I enjoyed a gourmet picnic delivered by Wright's Food, featuring homemade meatballs in tomato sauce followed by ginger cake with toffee sauce. We revived the fire and settled into deep sofas, talking late into the night as the embering wood hissed and crackled, fostering a deep sense of relaxation and camaraderie.
Jewellery-Making and Homemade Cawl
Sunday dawned with soft rain drifting across the fields. We drove to Newcastle Emlyn to meet Elen Bowen, a former primary school teacher turned jeweller, who runs silver and gold jewellery-making workshops at her home. She embarked on this new career in 2023 after having twin girls, deciding on a complete change. "I thought, heck, I'll start an Instagram page and see how it goes – and it snowballed!" she explained. This year, she was honoured to craft the crown for the best story writer at the National Eisteddfod, Wales' largest annual festival celebrating Welsh literature, music, and arts. Anna chose to make a bracelet; I opted for a ring. Under Elen's expert guidance, we hammered, soldered, and polished, imbuing our creations with personal flair, much as we had with our pottery. Afterwards, we gathered around her table to share bowlfuls of her homemade cawl—a traditional, hearty Welsh stew.
The Enduring Embrace of Cwtch
By the time we left, having shared heartfelt goodbyes with every remarkable woman we'd met, I reflected on that mug printed with cwtch. It wasn't merely a hug; it was the profound sensation of being gathered in, embraced by the warmth, skill, and generosity of each creator we had spent time with. It was the perfect word for a weekend meticulously crafted from fun, fantastic food, and a deeper, more meaningful closeness to one another and the beautiful land of Carmarthenshire.
Travel Details: The trip was provided by Discover Carmarthenshire’s Sisterhood Campaign. Ardderfin Farmhouse sleeps 8 adults, with prices starting from £772 for two nights. Sample activity costs (based on a group of 6+) include: a half-day pottery workshop with Siramik from £80 per person; yoga and wreath-making with Lowri Johnston for £90 per person; and a jewellery workshop with Elen Bowen for £130 per person, including lunch.
