Cylla Birmingham: A Mythical Greek Dining Adventure
Nestled on Newhall Street in the heart of Birmingham, Cylla stands as a classy Greek restaurant that draws inspiration from Scylla, the legendary man-eating sea monster of Greek mythology. This establishment, a revamped version of a former All Bar One, promises an experience that is seriously and elegantly Greek, yet delivered with a playful flair. Upon entering, guests are greeted by gorgeous private booths at the front, ideal for those seeking a cosy hideaway, while a long, prettily lit cocktail bar beckons for more social interactions.
Cocktails and Starters: A Salty and Sweet Introduction
The cocktail menu at Cylla is a dramatic affair, with options like Poseidon’s Wrath, a mega-bitter tipple of vodka and vermouth infused with piney mastiha, seaweed, and kalamata olive brine, described as salty, breathtaking, and head-spinning. For those with a sweeter palate, alternatives include honey-, peach-, and meringue-based cocktails, all bearing Greek myth-related names such as Aphrodite’s Bloom. The service is warm and knowledgeable, adding to the convivial atmosphere, even on a wet Wednesday in mid-January when the restaurant was nicely heaving with diners.
Moving to the food, the menu is roaringly traditional Greek with occasional Mediterranean and British influences. A smoked aubergine meze stands out for its smooth, rich texture and impressive depth of smokiness, enhanced with parsley, garlic, and vinegar. The prawn saganaki features firm king prawns in a well-balanced garlic and ouzo tomato sauce, accompanied by a basket of warm homemade bread that is deemed essential for the meal.
Mains and Sides: A Potato Revelation
While the lamb baklava proved underwhelming, resembling traditional sweet baklava stuffed with cumin and thyme-flavoured lamb, other options like a Greek-tinged beef tartare with gherkins, capers, truffle, and Tabasco, topped with a smoked egg yolk and served with authentic roditiki pitta, showcase the menu's personal touches. A main course of red snapper offers a generous piece of flaking fish on a subtle bouillabaisse-style sauce, though it could benefit from more basil, fennel, and star anise.
The true star of the show, however, is the beef fat potatoes. Listed modestly on the sides menu, these potatoes are described as possibly the best fondant potatoes ever eaten and maybe the best potato side dish served in the UK today. They feature a fluffy mash-like centre with a crisp exterior coated in beef fat on all four surfaces, elevating a familiar gastropub staple to new heights.
Dessert and Overall Impression
For dessert, the karidopita walnut offering presents a fancy-schmancy plating with smears, foams, and puddles of pecan cremeux, chocolate namelaka, and vanilla, yet remains delightful. Cylla emerges as a winner in Birmingham's dining scene, where many options are chains. It offers a dependable spot for groups and a romantic setting, especially in those private booths, making it a rare gem that ploughs its own furrow. With prices starting from about £60 a head à la carte and set lunch options available, Cylla is a destination worth visiting, even if it means braving the elements for a taste of glamorous Greek mythology.
