For one young man born and raised on the Isle of Man, a single, crowded pub became a portal to a heritage he never knew he had. Robin Craig's formative experiences in the Woodbourne hotel, a red-brick establishment in Douglas affectionately dubbed 'the Woody', fundamentally altered his perception of his homeland.
An Unforgettable First Impression
In 2011, a barely legal Robin Craig stepped into the Woody with a female friend, immediately feeling the weight of the regulars' stares. The atmosphere was that of intruders entering a sacred space. It was only after securing their pints and sitting down that they spotted the 'GENTS ONLY' sign on the wall. Craig had heard the pub served some of the island's best beer, but he was unprepared for the cultural immersion that awaited.
He discovered a bastion of traditional Manx life, constantly packed with older men at the bar and younger groups at the pool table. This was one of the last strongholds where thick Manx accents, laced with Gaelic, dominated conversation, and where patrons knew each other's family histories for generations.
A Glimpse of a Distinct Manx Identity
Raised with the common belief that learning Manx Gaelic was a futile endeavour, Craig found a different world inside the Woody. Here, English vividly mixed with Gaelic around the TVs and slot machines. Locals drank pints of Okell's Manx pale ale, brewed nearby, and greeted each other with 'fastyr mie' (good afternoon).
This environment offered Craig a tangible connection to a culture distinct from England's, one he had only glimpsed through his grandparents. The guiding principle was the Manx saying traa dy liooar – 'time enough'. Nobody was rushed; there was always time for another pint and another conversation.
From Outsiders to Temporary Regulars
Over the course of that summer, Craig and his friends visited regularly, always bringing moral support. They gradually learned the 'Gents Only' rule was not enforced, its signage maintained for nostalgia. The regulars softened, their suspicious glances ceasing. For a brief period, the young group became part of the pub's crammed, chaotic, and noisy piece of living Manx culture.
When autumn arrived, Craig left for London to study and build a new life. Yet, the summer spent in the Woody left an indelible mark. He developed a lasting taste for Manx ales and a dogged determination to preserve his own Manx accent. More profoundly, the experience taught him that places full of initially suspicious locals will, given traa dy liooar, always warm up in time.
