In the heart of Kensington, a true London institution has made a remarkable comeback. Maggie Jones's, the beloved restaurant that first opened its doors in 1964, has risen nobly from the ashes after a catastrophic fire gutted the premises in 2023. This revival marks the return of a dining spot steeped in royal history and timeless charm.
A Royal Connection and Humble Beginnings
Originally launched as Nan's Kitchen during the swinging sixties, when Harold Wilson took political reins and London's cultural scene was vibrant, this eatery quickly became a discreet favourite of Princess Margaret. Its proximity to Kensington Palace, dimly lit ambiance, and menu of comforting, elevated nursery food with a subtle French influence made it an ideal retreat for the royal. The food was designed to be gentle on both the palate and stomach, offering a sanctuary from the outside world.
Princess Margaret's frequent visits under the alias "Maggie Jones" led to the restaurant being renamed in her honour. While historical records are silent on whether she was flattered or merely unamused by this tribute, the name stuck, becoming synonymous with understated elegance and nostalgia.
Frozen in Time: The 1964 Aesthetic
Throughout decades of cultural shifts—from hippies to prog rockers, punks to New Romantics and ravers—Maggie Jones's defiantly refused to modernise. The interior remained a time capsule of 1964, featuring plank-panelled walls, weathered French furniture, candles lodged in wax-encrusted wine bottles, and dried lavender bunches suspended from the ceiling. This rustic, urban decor created an atmosphere that felt perpetually anchored in a bygone era.
The menu mirrored this steadfastness, boasting classics like prawn cocktail, French onion soup, calf's liver, and sausage and mash, with apple crumble and custard for dessert. Prices were reasonable, discretion was assured, and patrons consistently enjoyed a delightful experience. For many regulars, the appeal lay not in culinary innovation but in the comforting embrace of a vanished London.
Disaster and Triumphant Return
The devastating fire in 2023 threatened to erase this piece of Kensington history forever, leaving regulars mourning the loss. However, in a heartening turn of events, Maggie Jones's reopened at the end of last year, largely unchanged. The slightly shabby, rustic-chic decor has been faithfully restored, and even the irascible Frenchman who answers the phone—often sighing at reservation requests—has returned.
The Menu: A Mix of Nostalgia and Quality
While some dishes, like the prawn cocktail with its watery prawns and excessive rocket, remain distinctly average, others shine. The shepherd's pie is exceptional, with a crisp topping and richly flavoured lamb filling. A very decent sirloin steak is served alongside proper fat chips, boasting a craggy golden crunch. Service continues to be warm and attentive, though prices have increased in line with rising costs across the board.
Ultimately, what matters most is that Maggie Jones's endures, continuing to offer its unique blend of history and hospitality. For that, Londoners and visitors alike can be eternally grateful.
Approximately £50 per person. Maggie Jones's, 6 Old Court Place, London W8.
Rating: Preserved with affection and resilience.
