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How Mount Etna Has Turned Sicily into One of Italy’s Premier Destinations for Food Enthusiasts
Thanks to its namesake volcano, Etna is an astonishingly fertile region that has spawned a unique food and drink scene. Harriet O’Brien embarks on an epicurean tour to taste the spoils of this volcanic bounty.
The Volcanic Landscape and Its Agricultural Riches
Etna dazzled. For two days, the volcano had lurked obdurately behind clouds, out of sight to the extent that its presence seemed questionable. But with a burst of sunshine, all was revealed. Standing near the ruins of the mighty fortress, Castello di Lauria, the view was awe-inspiring: an 11,000 ft mountain shimmering under a fresh topping of snow.
The picture-book Medieval village of Castiglione di Sicilia, complete with the remains of its 12th-century castle, stands commandingly over the Alcantara Valley, in the shadow of Europe’s largest active volcano. This was the starting point for a tasting tour in the northern area of Etna, also known locally as Mongibello.
The trip was arranged by Alfio Puglisi, owner and host of Palazzo Previtera, a boutique foodie hotel in the nearby town of Linguaglossa. As part of its gourmet ethos, Alfio had devised epicurean excursions in the area, enthusiastically acting as a guide.
Understanding Etna's Influence on Local Produce
The volcano’s last serious eruption occurred in June 2025, with fountains of lava and columns of ash and gas rising several miles into the air. When asked if it was completely calm now, Alfio replied cheerfully, "Not entirely—there’s always activity of some sort, hence the continual plume of smoke." Etna has been a habitual smoker since around 1500 BC.
Alfio pointed to the patchwork of fields in the valley below, smallholdings teeming with olive trees, lemon trees, vines, and vegetables. "It’s a land of abundance because of Etna," he remarked with reverence. The region’s astonishing fertility is largely due to mineral-rich volcanic ash enriching the soil. "The volcano is, of course, a force of destruction," said Alfio. "But it’s also an incredible resource—and we understand how to benefit from it."
A Taste of Local Cheese and Wine
Strolling through Castiglione, we stopped at a small greengrocer to admire the spread of local produce: peaches, apples, hazelnuts, chestnuts, kiwi fruit, avocados, and mangoes farmed near Fiumefreddo on Etna’s eastern fringes. Beyond the views and vegetation, our mission was to taste cheese.
We made our way to Alcantara Formaggi, a family-run business producing ricotta, pecorino, caciotta, and other cheeses for four generations. Giuseppe Camuglia, having just taken in the morning’s milk supply, ushered us into his shop. As we savoured slivers of smoked scamorza and mellow nero dell’Etna, he explained his close working relationship with local herders. The grass and wild herbs impart generous flavour to the unpasteurised milk he uses.
Driving along rural lanes, we passed fields of olive trees, prickly pears, and vibrant yellow broom—used to flavour gin—divided by lava stone walls. Then we entered wine country. Etna’s wines are increasingly acclaimed, with around 200 DOC producers today. Alfio noted the enormous range of microclimates, meaning wines made even a few kilometres apart can vary immensely.
At Terrazze dell’Etna winery, established in 2008, I had a crash-course in Etna grape varieties. The red grape Nerello Mascalese took centre stage, particularly in the deep red Carusu, filled with flavours of cherry and black pepper. Ciuri, an elegant white wine, is made from the same grape by gently pressing it to separate juice from skin.
Innovative Winemaking in Maletto
In Maletto, about 15 kilometres west, Sonia Gambino runs Gustinella Wines, a pioneering winemaking business. Traditionally renowned for strawberries and pistachios, this area sees Sonia experimenting with grapes grown by neighbours. Trained in France, she returned to Sicily in 2020, but Covid halted operations. Using her grandfather’s old press, she began making wine, with villagers donating grapes in exchange for wine.
"We use a lot of Grenache and also a local white variety, Grecanico Dorato, but there are some field grapes we haven’t yet identified," Sonia explains. Her flagship wine, Vino di Confine, is a piquant red made with a field blend, while Jungimmune, a fresh, dry white, stood out as a winner.
Reflecting on Etna's Bounty
Back in Linguaglossa, a head-clearing walk revealed murals near the 17th-century church of SS Annunziata. Painted in the 1990s, they celebrate the area’s natural riches, with Etna depicted as a golden-haired woman with an inscrutable smile, holding a basket filled with olive oil, wine, mushrooms, chestnuts, lemons, and more—a fitting tribute to the volcano’s enduring gift.
Harriet’s stay was hosted by Palazzo Previtera. Doubles start from £174, with tailor-made wine and food trips available. A five-hour tour with a driver and guide costs from £243 per person, including lunch.
