Portloe: Cornwall's Timeless Fishing Village Hidden in a Cove
Nestled within a dramatic coastal landscape, the picturesque fishing village of Portloe stands as one of Cornwall's most remarkable and unspoiled destinations. This hidden treasure, often described as a "secret frozen in time," offers breathtaking views and traditional charm without the usual tourist throngs.
A Village Untouched by Time
Portloe sits magnificently at the base of a steep valley that opens onto the magnificent Veryan Bay on Cornwall's Roseland Peninsula. The village takes its name from the Cornish 'Porth Logh,' meaning 'cove pool' – an apt description reflecting its scenic setting within a cove encircled by striking hillsides.
The late Poet Laureate Sir John Betjeman once lauded Portloe as "one of the least spoiled and most impressive of Cornish fishing villages." This assessment remains accurate today, with the village maintaining its historic character and avoiding the urban expansion that has transformed many coastal communities.
Historical Significance and Modern Charm
Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, Portloe served as a thriving pilchard fishing harbour. At its peak, more than 50 fishing vessels worked from the village's sheltered cove, though today only two active boats remain. These vessels continue the traditional trade, catching lobster and crab that supply the village's two establishments: The Lugger and The Ship Inn.
The precipitous valleys surrounding Portloe have protected it from development, leaving the settlement and its structures virtually unchanged since their original construction centuries ago. Like much of Cornwall, Portloe has a history intertwined with smuggling, with French brandy serving as the primary illicit cargo trafficked through the village during periods when the fishing industry declined.
A Filming Location and Peaceful Retreat
Portloe's pristine charm has made it a sought-after filming location through the decades. The village has featured in numerous productions including Forever England (1935) starring John Mills, Treasure Island (1949), The Camomile Lawn (1991), and more recently in Richard Curtis' romantic comedy About Time (2013).
Visitors to Portloe find a genuine retreat from Cornwall's summer crowds. The village offers a picturesque historic harbour and a modest beach that reveals a small expanse of sand at low tide. Beyond eating, drinking, and soaking up spectacular coastal vistas, there's little else to occupy visitors – which many consider the perfect holiday experience.
What to See and Do in Portloe
Visitors shouldn't miss Portloe's two most celebrated establishments. Positioned right at the crown of the harbour slipway, The Lugger offers diners the chance to savour freshly caught lobster, crab, and fish while enjoying unrivalled vistas of the Cornish coastline. Steeped in Portloe's history, The Lugger was formerly a notorious smuggler's hideout.
For those preferring a valley-facing outlook and a more traditional pub ambience, the much-loved Ship Inn beckons. Originally a 17th-century fisherman's dwelling that remains adorned with nautical memorabilia, The Ship Inn has built its reputation on fresh seafood while also catering to fans of more conventional pub classics.
One Tripadvisor reviewer described Portloe as "one of those hidden treasures that we love. Tucked away and not easy to find, but so well worth the trip." Another delighted visitor remarked: "Lovely, timeless location, where they still winch small fishing boats up on the beach. Simple and unspoiled – thankfully not inundated with tourists."
With beautiful clifftop walks to enjoy and the sound of waves lapping on the shore, Portloe represents a genuine hidden treasure that has managed to preserve its timeless character while offering unmatched views of Cornwall's spectacular coastline.
