For those seeking a winter sun escape far from the crowds, a tiny tropical island in the Gulf of Guinea offers a compelling alternative to the Caribbean. Principe, part of one of West Africa's smallest nations with Sao Tome, combines stunning, unspoiled beaches with a profound sense of tranquility and a pioneering model for sustainable tourism.
A Slice of Undiscovered Paradise
The island's charm lies in its simplicity and remoteness. There are no major hotel chains, advertising billboards, and only a few basic shops in the sleepy main town of Santo António. Its landscape is a lush tapestry where the ruins of Portuguese colonial sugar and cocoa plantations are slowly being reclaimed by the jungle. This commitment to preserving natural beauty over commercial development is central to the island's identity.
Residents have notably rejected lucrative palm oil cultivation projects in favour of ecotourism. This direction is guided by the sustainable tourism enterprise HBD (Here Be Dragons), which manages three properties on Principe and recently acquired the island's only other operating hotel.
The Vision Behind Sustainable Development
The story of HBD is an unusual one, born from a view of Earth from space. Entrepreneur Mark Shuttleworth, who made history as the first African in space in 2002, had an epiphany during his journey. Upon returning, he was determined to protect the planet. He initially saw Principe as a private investment but quickly realised that tourism, managed responsibly, could create jobs for the local population—the true custodians of the environment—without disrupting its core natural beauty.
His vision is now coming to fruition. In 2012, thanks in part to HBD's efforts and local advocacy, the entire island and its islets were declared a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve. More than half of the mountainous volcanic island is a protected natural park, sheltering endemic species in a rainforest believed to be 31 million years old.
Experiencing Principe's Natural Wonders
For visitors, this translates into an exceptionally pristine environment. The waters teem with marine life; humpback whales are visible between July and October, while five species of turtles nest on the beaches from November to March. Inland, the landscape is perfect for hiking, with popular routes leading to peaks like Pico do Papagaio (Parrot Peak).
Accommodation reflects this eco-conscious ethos. Bom Bom, a former fishing lodge on a remote northern peninsula, was the first hotel to open. Recently reopened after a three-year pandemic closure, it offers a smart but unassuming collection of bungalows with two beachfronts. Development remains deliberately slow, with a new restaurant open and a beach bar in the pipeline.
The journey itself contributes to its preserved state. Reaching Principe requires a flight via Lisbon and Sao Tome, a filter that has helped keep this paradise largely untouched by mass tourism.
A New Model for Tourism
The island's future is being shaped by innovative projects. HBD has revived small-scale cocoa production at the heritage property Roca Sundy, a former plantation. Furthermore, they are launching a Natural Dividend project designed to financially reward islanders for protecting local ecosystems and biodiversity. Mark Shuttleworth hopes this model can one day be replicated across Africa.
For the traveller seeking a genuine escape, Principe delivers. It is a place where the simple pleasure of sharing freshly baked bread in a village bakery encapsulates the authentic, unassuming joys of a destination that has consciously chosen a different path.
