As tourists gradually return to the North African nation, Tunisia reveals itself once more as the Mediterranean's most captivating destination. Phil Thomas explores its Ottoman tiles, ancient amphitheatres and pristine white sand beaches, discovering a country experiencing a tourism renaissance after a challenging decade.
The Medina's Living Tapestry
In Tunis's bustling medina, an immediate parallel emerges between the local cats and shoppers. Both navigate the narrow alleys with effortless grace, sweeping past slower-moving tourists with confident purpose. The shoppers in flowing abayas and the cats with their haughtily arched backs share an unshakeable certainty about their direction.
For visitors, however, orientation proves more challenging. The walkways appear remarkably similar, creating a labyrinthine experience where the relentless clamour of daily life envelops newcomers. Vegetable carts tower beside locals sipping tea from low stools while engaging in animated debates. The stallholders demonstrate particular skill in adapting their sales approach to perceived nationalities, with British visitors quickly identified through linguistic cues.
"Good price for you, guv'nor. Cheap as chips, my friend," comes the familiar refrain that inevitably draws smiles from British tourists. This centuries-old commercial strategy remains remarkably effective, as visitors find themselves ushered inside shops moments later.
Tourism's Remarkable Resurgence
Following a difficult period spanning the 2015 Sousse terrorist attack and the Covid pandemic, Tunisia's tourism sector has experienced a substantial recovery. Over the past year alone, nearly 450,000 British holidaymakers have visited, supported by more than fifty daily flights originating from various UK airports.
This spring holds particular significance as Tunisia commemorates seventy years since gaining independence from France. This milestone feels especially relevant for travellers rediscovering a nation long defined by external influences. Beyond its stunning Mediterranean coastline and approximately 300 annual days of sunshine, Tunisia offers an unusually concentrated historical narrative for its geographical size.
The country maintains a strong connection to its geographical roots and cultural heritage rather than pursuing mass tourism development. Financially, Tunisia remains considerably more affordable than regional tourism giants Morocco and Egypt, providing excellent value for international visitors.
Layers of Civilisation
Tunisia's strategic location has made it irresistible to successive occupying civilisations throughout history. Phoenician traders established early settlements, followed by Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, Ottomans and finally the French, whose departure in 1956 established the modern nation-state. Each era, combined with the indigenous Berber population, has left distinctive fingerprints on the architecture, culture and cuisine.
Modern Tunis exists alongside the pre-Roman city of Carthage, whose ruins represent one of Tunisia's premier historical attractions. As guide Ahmed explains, Carthage was "ill-treated by history," repeatedly destroyed by successive conquerors. When Arab forces arrived during the seventh century, they strategically established Tunis's medina slightly inland, creating a more defensible position.
Architectural Time Capsules
Tunis's layered history remains constantly visible in its urban landscape. Delicately carved blue doors open onto patisseries rivalling those found in Paris, while intricate Ottoman tombs at the recently rediscovered royal mausoleum of Tourbet El-Bey stand adjacent to carpet shops with flaking paintwork.
Hidden behind a distinctive yellow door within the medina's heart, Dar Slah restaurant pays simultaneous homage to multiple historical eras. Ottoman tiling combines with Arabic balconies and French chandeliers, while the menu follows this multicultural approach. Dates and quince accompany fish and couscous alongside hsou – a spicy semolina soup finished with lemon – followed by creamy tarts for dessert. Each dish arrives accompanied by the traditional Arabic blessing "sahtein," wishing diners double health.
"Forget Taylor Swift," Ahmed remarks cryptically as visitors depart Tunis. "Come to Tunisia and you have the original Eras Tour right here."
Historical Landmarks
The Great Mosque of Kairouan powerfully illustrates Tunisia's historical depth. Founded during the seventh century and embellished by countless rulers since, it ranks among the world's oldest mosques and represents, according to certain Islamic traditions, the fourth holiest site in Islam after Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem.
On bright winter mornings, the courtyard maintains a serene atmosphere. A handful of students sit inside the dimly lit prayer hall, silently mouthing Quranic verses. "Notice anything unusual?" Ahmed whispers, directing attention toward the interior columns.
Closer inspection reveals that no pillar matches its neighbour. Some consist of Carrara marble while others feature Aswan granite – all examples of spoila, repurposed materials taken from older buildings and conquered civilisations. Even the exterior walls incorporate marble slabs bearing deep Latin inscriptions, creating striking incongruity within a structure over a millennium old.
Ancient Entertainment
The Roman amphitheatre at El Djem represents an even older wonder. Constructed without foundations approximately 1,800 years ago, it once accommodated up to 35,000 spectators. Its Corinthian columns and vaulted basement galleries, where gladiators and animals were hoisted into the arena via pulley lifts beneath a retractable wooden floor, remain so remarkably preserved that they require no interpretive panels or virtual reality enhancements.
Climbing between the arena's three levels provides escape from contemporary crowds. Sitting on limestone blocks polished by two millennia's worth of visitors, imagination easily reconstructs the site during its historical peak.
Coastal Contrasts
The old city of Sousse feels less like a conventional town and more like an enormous labyrinth. While its six miles of white-sand beach attract numerous visitors, its medina represents another historical heavyweight. Relative to El Djem and Kairouan, it appears rather modern, dating to the ninth century. The crenelated walls of the Ribat, an authentic fortress, and the Great Mosque, which merely resembles one, dominate the skyline.
Ahmed discreetly indicates a more recent cultural landmark: the wall featured in the stoning scene from Monty Python's Life of Brian. "Don't say Jehovah," he grins knowingly.
As dusk descends, the muezzin's call to prayer drifts across rooftops, momentarily stilling the casbah. Worshippers gravitate toward the mosque's small doorway, dwarfed by its fortified walls. Even stallholders pause their commercial cries, though their eyes continue scanning crowds for potential customers.
For a suspended moment, everything feels timeless. This scene has likely played out each evening for centuries, outlasting successive empires. Seventy years after independence, this profound sense of historical continuity makes Tunisia feel like the Mediterranean's most intriguing destination – a nation whose history continues unfolding through countless eras yet to be fully explored.
Practical Information
Arrival Options:
- Most UK flights to Tunisia land at Enfidha-Hammamet airport, situated between Tunis and Sousse
- Easyjet and Tui operate multiple routes from Birmingham, Bristol, East Midlands, Edinburgh, Liverpool, London, Manchester and Newcastle
- Flight duration averages three hours with return fares starting from £98
- For travellers from mainland Europe, ferries from Marseilles and Genoa sail to Tunis every two or three days during summer with reduced winter frequency
- Ferry bookings available through Corsica Linea or Tunisian operator CTN
Transportation Between Destinations:
- Four daily trains connect Tunis and Sousse, taking approximately two hours and ten minutes at £3 one-way
- Three daily connections operate between Sousse and El Djem at £1.50 one-way
- Timetables available from Tunisian Railways
- Private tours recommended for visiting Kairouan and El Djem from either Tunis or Sousse, with Viator offering several quality options
Accommodation Recommendations:
- Dar El Medina in central Tunis offers traditional riad heritage with an open-air terrace from £95 per night
- Dar Lekbira Boutique Hotel in Sousse's medina provides beautifully decorated rooms with freshly baked breakfast from £75 per night
