Rick Stein's Favourite Vegan Indian Street Food Spot: A Manchester Review
When a restaurant earns the admiration of culinary legend Rick Stein, it's a clear sign of exceptional quality. Bundobust, with four locations across the North-west, has done just that, becoming a standout destination for vegan Indian street food enthusiasts.
A Celebrity Chef's Seal of Approval
The Leeds branch of Bundobust, which originally launched in 2014, was featured on the Yorkshire episode of Rick Stein's Food Stories in 2024. This appearance solidified the brand's reputation, with Stein himself giving it his enthusiastic endorsement. Beyond this celebrity nod, Bundobust has accumulated numerous accolades, including being named Best Indian and Nepalese Restaurant across the North and Midlands by Deliveroo. It also won Best Innovation at The Casual Dining Awards and was crowned the nation's Best Taproom at the SIBA Awards.
Visiting the Manchester Brewery Taproom
I chose to visit the Bundobust Brewery on Oxford Road in Manchester, one of two venues in the city. This location operates as a taproom, featuring nine tanks where Bundobust beer is crafted and served under one roof. As a non-beer drinker, the brewery aspect didn't personally resonate, but the ambience was brilliant. Visiting on a Monday evening meant it was relatively quiet, though I'd expect it to become livelier towards the weekend.
The Dining Experience and Menu Options
Bundobust offers a tapas-style dining experience with smaller plates. Serving staff recommend two or three dishes per diner, and there are various combination options available. One standout is a combo featuring every item on the menu, designed for groups of up to eight. Since I was dining with just one companion, we skipped that and opted for the vegan combo for two.
This combo included:
- Cobis nu shack (shredded cabbage, peas, carrots, and spices)
- Okra fries
- Onion bhaji
- Bhel puri (crumbled samosa pastry, puffed rice, peas, onion, pomegranate, and tomato)
- Aloo and dhal kachori (deep-fried potato and sweet potato patties filled with a fiery dhal mixture)
- Chole saag (chickpea and spinach creation served with puri)
For drinks, I chose a peach mai tai, while my friend went for the Peela Pale Ale from Bundobust's brews. Both beverages were excellent, and I'm keen to explore more of their cocktail selection on future visits.
Food Quality and Standout Dishes
Despite the tapas-style service, all plates arrived simultaneously and remarkably promptly. My favourite dish was the okra fries, which were executed flawlessly. However, there wasn't a single plate I didn't relish. Even my least preferred option, the cobis nu shack, is something I'd definitely order again. The onion bhajis were another mouthwatering offering, though having three in a sharing platter for two seemed a curious decision. Given the sheer volume of food, you won't leave peckish even if your dining partner claims two.
It's worth noting that when Rick Stein visited the Leeds site, he helped prepare raghda pethis, an Anglo-Indian fusion dish of potato cake topped with spiced mushy peas, tomato, onion, and tamarind chutney. While this sounds scrumptious, I decided against including it in our selection since the combo already featured a comparable dish, the aloo and dhal kachori.
Value for Money and Overall Impressions
Priced at £37, the vegan combo for two offers an excellent opportunity to sample the menu without breaking the bank. For non-vegans, there's a standard combo that swaps out some items for paneer options. After including beverages and gratuity, our bill totalled £52.76, which represented decent value considering the quantity and quality of food. However, the amount was possibly excessive for just two diners.
Overall, I thoroughly enjoyed every dish in the vegan combo and would definitely consider ordering it again. That said, I might invite a third companion next time, as it proved simply too generous for a pair. Bundobust operates locations in Leeds, Liverpool, and Manchester, making it a must-visit for anyone seeking innovative vegan Indian street food in a vibrant setting.
