Renowned British chef Rick Stein may not have the sprawling London empire of some contemporaries, but his single capital outpost in Barnes has garnered a loyal following. With Christmas in full swing, I visited to sample the festive set menu and see if the Padstow legend's cuisine translates successfully to the banks of the Thames.
A Thames-Side Setting with Unbeatable Ambiance
Stepping into the warmly lit restaurant, we were immediately greeted by the soft melodies of a live pianist. We were shown to a coveted window-side table offering a charming, if nocturnal, view over the River Thames, where rowers could still be seen practising. It was arguably the best vista from any restaurant I've reviewed this year, and one can only imagine the demand for these tables during summer evenings.
The Festive Menu: A Fishy Main and a Heavy Finale
Adhering to my standard review format, I assessed the main course, dessert, and a paired drink. The festive menu is priced at £44 for two courses or £50 for three. It seemed obligatory to order fish at a Stein establishment, so I selected the braised fillet of haddock with chestnut mushrooms and roasted chestnuts.
The typically modest haddock was presented in a generous portion and elevated by the earthy mushrooms, sweet chestnuts, and a well-balanced sauce. It was paired with a robust white burgundy (£15.70 for 175ml) which offered sweet undertones, creating a harmonious combination.
For dessert, the Yule Log proved less successful. While substantial, it lacked cream and tasted overly heavy, reminiscent of a supermarket offering rather than a chef-crafted pudding. It was saved somewhat by a strong, refreshing mint tea (£3.75). Notably, my companion who ordered from the standard menu had a smaller final bill.
The Final Verdict: Is It Worth The Hype?
Overall, Rick Stein's sole London venue is a commendable restaurant. The ambiance is cosy and inviting, the service was efficient and attentive (bar a minor dessert mix-up), and the crucial fish dish lived up to the famous name it carries. It's a spot worthy of a return visit and would make an excellent choice for a dinner date.
On the plate, the fish was a definitive hit, but the yule log failed to impress. If I had to distil the entire experience into just three words, they would be: homely, relaxed, and premium.
The total bill, including a 12.5% discretionary service charge (£7.94), came to £71.39.
