After lengthy delays and a budget stretching into the hundreds of millions, Sydney's gleaming new Fish Market has finally welcomed its first customers, trading its famous pong for a polished, seagull-free experience.
A Glitzy New Home on the Harbour
The new $836 million facility on Blackwattle Bay opened its doors on Monday, marking a dramatic departure from its predecessor, which had operated since 1966. One of the most immediate changes noted by early visitors was the conspicuous absence of the old market's infamous feathered residents and their mess.
"I've been waiting 50 years for this," one elated shopper remarked. "I couldn't bring friends here from Europe to sit out there [at the old market] with the birds and the shit." The seagulls, seemingly unaware of the relocation, were still congregating at the now-silent old site.
By 7am, hundreds of eager patrons were filtering into the vast new building, which juts out into Sydney Harbour under a distinctive 20,000 square metre checkered roof. The project, originally slated for a late 2024 opening, was delayed by over a year due to construction hurdles and negotiations with existing vendors.
From Prawns to Pastries: A Market Transformed
The scale and scope of the market have been radically expanded. While most retailers from the old site have made the move, the vendor count has grown to around 40, incorporating a diverse array of non-seafood offerings. Visitors can now browse for flowers, artisan cheese, pizza, and bánh mì alongside the daily catch.
General manager Carmelo Lombardo, a veteran of more than 30 years at the old Get Fish stall, described the opening as a "proud moment." "I didn't know myself coming into a state-of-the-art building such as this … it's just amazing," he said, noting the palpable excitement from the public.
However, first impressions from the crowds were mixed. While many were awed by the scale and cleanliness, others balked at the premium prices. Bob, a visitor from Adelaide who has frequented the market for five decades, was shocked at the cost of live king crab, priced at $279 a kilogram.
"It's cheaper in Adelaide," he said, tucking into a prawn platter. "I can't believe the cost of the crabs here. In Adelaide you can get them for 20 bucks, or walk out and catch 20 crabs in an hour."
Conquering Culinary Fears in a New Era
The new market promises something for every budget and palate. NSW Premier Chris Minns emphasised that the venue would cater to all, whether seeking "caviar or crab sticks." For one Guardian journalist, Caitlin Cassidy, the visit became a personal challenge, confronting two foods she had avoided for a decade: oysters and octopus.
She sampled barbecued octopus from the Fish Market Cafe for $18.50, finding it "fresh, smoky and a little sweet," albeit with a side of guilt upon remembering the creature's sentience. The six Sydney Rock oysters from Nicholas Seafood, costing $16.50, proved a more difficult hurdle, their texture and appearance a stern test of nerve.
Other visitors, like Robert and Brigitte who flew in from Darwin, had no such qualms, happily enjoying a dozen oysters at 8am. They had stumbled upon the new site after finding the old market closed. "It's pretty impressive, smells a lot cleaner than the other place," Robert observed, "but who knows how long that'll last."
The state government expects six million visitors annually and is investing a further $70 million in transport links, including a new ferry wharf and light rail upgrades. The opening day demand was so high that the market reached capacity by lunchtime, with some turned away.
Amid the buzz and novelty, some felt a pang of nostalgia for the gritty charm of the old site. The journalist noted the new building's pristine atmosphere perhaps lacked the warmth and character of its predecessor, now sitting empty and awaiting demolition. Yet, the allure of new discoveries—like taiyaki, a fish-shaped custard pastry—served as a reminder that sometimes it's best to simply enjoy the feast before you.
