The fashion world has received its first definitive answer to the question of what a post-Giorgio Armani future looks like. At Milan Fashion Week on Monday afternoon, Leo Dell'Orco, the late designer's collaborator and right-hand man for four decades, presented his debut collection for the house's menswear line. This marked the first Armani collection created without any involvement from Giorgio Armani, who died in September.
A Palette Shift from Greige to Jewels
Where Armani under its founder was synonymous with relaxed, deconstructed tailoring and fluid fabrics in a signature shade of 'greige', Dell'Orco's vision maintained the silhouette but boldly refreshed the colour palette. The collection shifted focus towards rich, jewel-like tones of amethyst, sapphire, and lapis blue. The everyday Armani uniform of velvet coordinates, cashmere shackets, and polo shirts was reimagined in these vibrant hues.
The show also tapped into a 1980s sensibility, featuring leather bomber jackets, aviator-inspired styles, jacquard knits, and rakish suiting. This nod to the archives is a savvy commercial move, capitalising on a surge in demand for vintage Armani. Following Giorgio's death, platforms like eBay reported a 192% spike in searches for the brand.
A Celebration, Not a Reinvention
Held in the familiar basement room of Armani's Milan headquarters, the show was met with a positive reception from the menswear press. The consensus was that Dell'Orco, who took his bow alongside his nephew and head of the menswear style office, Gianluca Dell'Orco, honoured the house's legacy while imprinting his own mark.
"It definitely felt like the brand wasn't trying to reinvent itself after the passing of Mr Armani," said Zak Maoui, style director at Gentleman's Journal. "Dell'Orco left his mark without distorting the lasting memory we have of, ultimately, the iconic brand that Armani built." Paul Toner, deputy editor at 10 Magazine, agreed, praising the "buttery soft leather jackets" as a youthful addition that felt authentic to the house codes.
Future Leadership and Ownership
The show notes emphasised that Dell'Orco's vision emerged naturally from his 40-year partnership, suggesting his role may be a long-term appointment rather than an interim measure. He oversees menswear, while Armani's niece, Silvana, continues as womenswear design director.
Speculation about a permanent creative director for all collections continues, with former Celine and Dior Homme designer Hedi Slimane frequently rumoured. Meanwhile, the future ownership structure of the Armani group is also in focus. A new board is enacting Giorgio Armani's specific posthumous wishes, which instruct heirs to sell a stake of up to 54.9% to a single buyer, with L'Oréal, EssilorLuxottica and LVMH named as potential candidates. An official announcement on the next steps is pending.
