The storied house of Giorgio Armani has confidently stepped into a new chapter, presenting its first menswear runway collection under the sole creative direction of Leo Dell'Orco. The show, held on Monday 19 January 2026, was witnessed by a star-studded audience including Ricky Martin and Hudson Williams, marking a pivotal moment following the iconic designer's passing in September.
A Continuity of Heritage with a Modern Edge
Unveiled on the final day of Milan Fashion Week, the collection was a masterful exercise in respectful evolution. It remained in complete continuity with Armani's heritage of soft tailoring, yet introduced clear signs of a new sharpness and modernity. From the opening look—a loden green top paired with a textured jacket and grey trousers—the direction was clear: honour the past while looking firmly forward.
The New Colour Palette and Archival Touches
A fresh and compelling colour story defined the presentation. Iridescent jewel tones in soothing purples and lapis blues were expertly showcased, playing beautifully against luxurious fabrics like velvet, cashmere, and chenille. Signature Armani elements shone through in blouson bomber jackets and belted trench coats, often styled with simple white shirts, ties, and the brand's trademark pleated trousers. The looks were completed with slightly crumpled fedora hats, adding a touch of nonchalant elegance.
In a departure from Armani's own practice of rarely staging a finale, the new collection received a full walk-through. The crowd responded with warm applause as Ricky Martin filmed intently from his front-row seat.
A Sense of Renewed Energy
The atmosphere in Milan's fashion chamber was one of palpable excitement. Alex Badia, WWD's fashion and style director, observed, "Somehow it feels more energetic, there is something about joy. It is not a new beginning but you can sense something new is happening, there is a sense of energy that is great."
Carlo Capasa, head of Milan's fashion chamber, praised the collection's modernity. "I found the true spirit of Armani," he stated after the show, endorsing Dell'Orco's vision.
The emotional climax came as Leo Dell'Orco, Armani's collaborator of 40 years, took a bow to sustained applause. In a symbolic sartorial shift, Dell'Orco appeared in a double-breasted suit without a tie—a contrast to Armani's legendary uniform of a simple dark T-shirt, later paired with a blazer.
The debut successfully balanced reverence for a formidable legacy with a confident stride into the future, assuring the fashion world that the Armani aesthetic is in assured hands.
