The iconic, voluminous hairstyles of the 1980s are making a major comeback on red carpets and city streets, but with a crucial contemporary twist. Forget the stiff perms and helmet-like hairspray of decades past; today's iteration is all about soft, touchable, and healthy-looking fullness.
The Foundation: A Strategic Haircut
Celebrity hairstylist Jason Collier, founder of Studio23, emphasises that the journey to big hair begins not with products, but in the salon chair. The right cut is paramount for creating the illusion of natural volume before any styling tools are used.
"Ask for long, feathered layers that are placed properly through the crown and around the face to encourage lift," Collier advises. He warns against heavy, blunt lines which can weigh hair down. A skilled stylist will craft a shape that builds body without overly thinning the hair, maintaining a healthy and full feel.
For those with curly hair, precision is even more critical. Curly hair expert and Curlsmith ambassador Nicola Harrowell states that "the cut is everything." She recommends requesting rounded layers specifically designed for curls, which allow them to spring upwards rather than being pulled down by heavy lengths.
Products: Lift Without the Crunch
The key distinction between the 1980s original and the 2026 revival is texture. The goal is to avoid any crunchy or stiff finish. Collier cautions against using heavy creams and traditional stiff sprays during styling.
"Good-looking volume comes from products that support the hair, not coat it," he explains. He champions root sprays, light mousses, and fine texture mists for providing essential lift and grip without stiffness. For curly hair, Harrowell suggests a lightweight mousse for lift and hold that keeps curls soft and bouncy, or diluting gel with water for a "juicy" texture.
Styling Techniques for Maximum Body
There are universal pro tricks for achieving impressive volume. Collier highlights directional drying: "Drying the roots in the opposite direction to how the hair naturally falls instantly creates lift." Even flipping your head upside down for the initial few minutes of blow-drying can make a significant difference.
Stylist Sophie Chandler from RUSH Hair recommends using a large round brush on long layers, blowing the hair back and forth away from the root to achieve a textured, voluminous finish. For curly hair, Harrowell identifies diffusing as the best method. She advises drying with the head tilted or upside down on low heat and airflow to encourage root lift without disturbing the curl pattern.
The unanimous advice from all experts is that hair health is non-negotiable for this look to succeed. Chandler stresses that heat styling without protection strips moisture and weakens hair structure, making a heat protectant essential. Collier agrees, noting that healthy hair always looks fuller and warning against over-styling day after day. For curls, Harrowell points out that balanced moisture is the secret to fuller, shinier, and more defined curls with minimal effort.
