Patrick McDowell's 'The Gaze' Collection Nods to Dior at London Fashion Week
The royal-approved designer Patrick McDowell delivered a show-stopping blend of Old Hollywood glamour and sustainable craft at London Fashion Week. The London-based Liverpudlian presented their autumn/winter 2026 collection, titled "The Gaze," which served as a poignant and theatrical study in silhouette, sustainability, and cinematic refinement.
Royal Recognition and High Fashion Credentials
McDowell is among the most talked-about designers on this season's schedule, having received the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design from the Princess of Wales in May last year. Later that same month, Sarah Jessica Parker wore a custom Patrick McDowell floral skirt and shirt in And Just Like That, further cementing the label's position within high fashion. Following a standout ready-to-wear spring/summer show last September, McDowell showed no signs of dialling it back this season.
Inspiration from George Platt Lynes
The collection drew inspiration from George Platt Lynes, the 1930s and 1940s Vogue photographer known for his striking compositions and nuanced studies of the male nude. McDowell explained that Lynes' understanding of form, proportion, and elegance informed both the silhouettes of the looks and the craftsmanship behind them. The set reinforced this narrative, held at Rambert, the legendary dance academy in London, where dancer Jonathon Luke Baker reclined on a rock surrounded by moss and sprouting flowers, dressed in ballet tights, as models strode past him.
Silhouettes and Styling Details
On the runway, silhouettes were a standout feature. Exaggerated hourglass waists and nipped-in tailoring nodded to Dior's "New Look" of the 1940s, while peplums flared from jackets and dresses to accentuate the waist. Pussy-bow blouses were styled beneath structured coats and waistcoats, and double-breasted outerwear created a sense of sophistication. The colour palette was tightly edited, dominated by black and deep plum, offset by flashes of ivory. Silk was central to the collection, lending fluidity to draped gowns and structure to corseted bodices, with McDowell's signature florals woven throughout.
Theatrical Elements and Headwear
There was a clear sense of old Hollywood glamour, with embellished cups, exquisite draping, and sartorial sculpting evoking a bygone era, yet the execution felt firmly contemporary. Headpieces amplified the drama, from wide-brimmed hats to feathered fascinators, giving both height and theatricality while echoing the collection's vintage references. McDowell worked with the Irish milliner Patrick Treacy, who was granted a royal warrant by Queen Camilla in 2024, to create the headwear.
Sustainability as a Core Principle
As ever, sustainability underpinned the show. McDowell is known for transforming deadstock fabrics into pieces reminiscent of heritage couture houses, reconstructing trench coats into corsets and sculpted skirts, and elevating vintage textiles into modern eveningwear. Production runs remain deliberately small, with many garments made to order to prevent overproduction. Clients can return pieces for refitting as their bodies change, reinforcing longevity over disposability. This commitment is rooted in McDowell's early years, repurposing discarded materials into bags to sell at school aged 13.
A Thoughtful and Visually Arresting Show
With "The Gaze," McDowell combined theatrical staging, classic tailoring, and a disciplined palette to deliver a collection that felt both nostalgic and refreshing. By framing glamour through the lens of sustainability and authorship, they offered a show that was as thoughtful as it was visually arresting, balancing sensuality with control in a masterful display of fashion artistry.
