The news will strike a chord with elder millennials who once defined their nights out by vodka cranberries, skinny jeans, and fedoras: the iconic Australian fashion label Sass & Bide is temporarily shutting its doors. In a bold move announced on social media, the brand confirmed it will close all its retail channels, including standalone boutiques, concessions, and its e-commerce site, by the end of January. The stated aim is a complete reinvention, with a relaunch planned for later this year.
From Portobello Road to Global Stardom
Founded in 1999 by Brisbane duo Sarah-Jane Clarke and Heidi Middleton, Sass & Bide began as a stall on London's famed Portobello Road, selling distinctive, embellished jeans. The brand experienced a meteoric rise throughout the 2000s, becoming synonymous with the indie sleaze aesthetic of the Myspace and Tumblr eras. Its signature pieces—think distressed denim, 'Rats' leggings, and side-boob flashing singlet dresses—became uniform for a generation of festival-goers and laneway party attendees.
The label's rock 'n' roll energy attracted a glittering roster of celebrity clients, including Beyoncé, Rihanna, Paris Hilton, Madonna, Kate Moss, and Taylor Swift. This global acclaim culminated in Australian department store giant Myer acquiring the business in two transactions between 2011 and 2013 for approximately $70 million. Both founding designers departed the company in 2014.
A Strategic Pause and a Difficult Market
The decision to pause operations punctuates a challenging period for Myer, which has seen its share price struggle over the last twelve months. The closure affects three stand-alone boutiques, 14 concession stands, and the brand's online store.
A Myer spokesperson framed the move as strategic, emphasising the brand's enduring heritage and the goal to connect with younger shoppers. "It played an important role in the Australian fashion landscape, and we know it can do that again, given the affection and following Sass & Bide maintains," they said. The planned revival aims to be relevant to a new generation while leveraging this storied past.
The Lost DNA: From Edge to Conservatism
Industry observers note that in recent years, Sass & Bide's collections seemed to lose the rebellious, youthful spirit that defined its heyday. Replacing drapey vests and high-rise shorts were conservative blouses, pleated trousers, and sensible twinsets—a pivot towards a more mature, working woman's wardrobe that failed to ignite sales or passion.
Reflecting on the brand's origins, Heidi Middleton told Guardian Australia in 2023 that their early success was driven by a fearless, artistic love affair with fashion. "We were being swept along this wild ride rather than driving and guiding us along a strategic path," she remarked. This contrast between raw creativity and corporate strategy lies at the heart of the brand's current crossroads.
As the label prepares for its next chapter, the key question remains: can a relaunch spearheaded by fresh, zeitgeist-capturing talent successfully tap into the revived appetite for Y2K and raver aesthetics? Analysts suggest its only hope of reclaiming its original magic is to prioritise artistry and originality over mere product development and commercial strategy. The coming months will reveal if Sass & Bide can once again dress the cultural moment, rather than just the customer.
