For most football enthusiasts, following their team across Europe represents the ultimate fan experience, with iconic cities like Madrid, Milan, and Munich typically dominating such continental tours. This week, however, Newcastle United fans are redefining the limits of dedication by undertaking a grueling 2,529-mile journey from Tyneside to Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan, for their Champions League play-off match against Qarabag.
The Logistical Challenge of Reaching Baku
There are no direct flights available from northern England to Baku, a city celebrated for its unique blend of European and Asian cultures. Oil-rich Azerbaijan, along with neighboring nations Armenia and Georgia, participates in UEFA competitions due to historical ties from its Soviet past. Approximately 2,000 Newcastle supporters are expected to make this pilgrimage, with Daily Mail Sport capturing the essence of their adventurous travels.
Fan Experiences: Cheap Beer and Cultural Surprises
The connection crackled slightly as David Harnett explained he had limited time to chat because his group was about to move to another bar. "It's cheap as owt, mate," he remarked between sips of Xirdalan lager. "The place over here is absolutely fantastic. It's friendly at the minute."
Newcastle fans have been enthusiastically enjoying the local brews in Azerbaijan after their lengthy journey. One group shared a post with delight: '20 degrees and £2.50 a beer. Geordie boys in Azerbaijan'. The Newcastle United Supporters’ Club recommended meeting points such as Fountain Square, William Shakespeare Pub, and Finnegans Bars, noting plenty of pubs and restaurants in the area.
Harnett detailed his itinerary: "We got a train to Manchester, then a plane to Istanbul, then to Baku. Got here at 4am this morning, had a couple of hours' sleep and got on the beers! This is the furthest I've ever been for a match. I went to Ukraine in 2013 for a Europa League game before it started getting blown up, like. Baku is a nice place, clean, loads of Newcastle fans, every pub is full."
Affordable Luxury and Local Hospitality
As any good tour guide would, fans emphasized the cost of a pint. Tom Johnston was quick to highlight the value: "It's a stunning city. I didn't know what to expect but the locals are friendly, so much culture… The £1.50 vodkas and £2.50 beers help! I should have brought some shorts, though, it's 16C, I thought it would be freezing for some reason. I feel totally safe, I am sure there's the odd chancer but the locals seem proud to show off their city."
Another supporter, Jay, shared his group's experience: "A few of our group went to Aston Villa on Saturday and headed straight to Baku after that game. We flew from Stansted and stopped in Turkey before heading on, 10 hours of flying each way and trains to Stansted on top of that. The flights were £280, hotel was £80 each for four nights in a four-star hotel and our visa was £20. The food, drink and taxis are ridiculously cheap. I paid £1.50 for a 20-minute taxi journey yesterday."
Qarabag's Troubled History and Sporting Prowess
Qarabag themselves are not playing at their original home. Originally based in Aghdam, approximately 230 miles west of Baku, the club was forced to flee in 1993 when Armenian forces seized the territory during a six-year conflict, displacing around 40,000 Azerbaijanis. Their former manager, Allahverdi Baghirov, was killed in the turmoil.
Aghdam has remained a ghost town ever since. In a controversial incident, former Qarabag press officer Nurlan Ibrahimov was banned for life in 2020 after calling for the killing of all Armenians "old and young without distinction". Many Newcastle fans flew out on Tuesday morning, eager to take advantage of the remarkably low prices in Baku.
Human Rights Concerns and Sporting Ambitions
Amnesty International has accused Azerbaijan of attempting to "sports wash its appalling human rights record" by hosting four matches during Euro 2020 and the 2019 Europa League final. Qarabag are striving to return to their hometown of Aghdam, but the area remains hazardous due to numerous planted explosives.
Despite these challenges, Qarabag are a formidable opponent on the pitch. The team has secured 11 of the last 12 league titles and earned 10 points in the league phase, including a draw against Chelsea and a victory over Benfica. Their manager, Gurban Gurbanov, has held his position since 2008, demonstrating remarkable stability and success.
Around 2,000 Newcastle supporters are following Eddie Howe's squad in the Champions League play-offs, blending the thrill of European football with an unforgettable travel adventure to a distant and culturally rich destination.
