For the first time since 2011, I will be spending Christmas alone and in my own home this year. No invitations have been extended, and no one has offered to look after my little dog. While I hate to admit it, my Jack Russell, Rommel, hasn't seemed this happy in years, now that his sister, the imperious Lulu, has passed away.
The Soaring Cost of the Festive Centrepiece
After years of cooking the family feast, the joy had begun to fade, with something always seeming to go wrong. This year, in my own space, I am in complete command of the menu and timings. And that menu is highly unlikely to feature a whole turkey. The reason? A premium free-range turkey now commands a price of at least £100, a figure that represents an absurd expense for one man and his dog.
This marks a dramatic inflation from just a few years ago. In 2022, a high-end Kelly Bronze bird cost around £70. A decade before that, it was a mere £40. The current price hike is born of stark realities: a sharp increase in feeding costs, losses from avian flu, and a key change in supermarket strategy. Retailers are now far less willing to use the turkey as a 'loss leader' to draw customers into stores for other, overpriced items.
A Nation Falling Out of Love with Turkey
Beyond the cost, our national appetite for the traditional centrepiece is waning. Many families are tired of throwing out most of the carcass a day or two after the 25th, as cold, low-fat turkey loses its appeal. Furthermore, post-Covid habits have solidified, with more people opting for tight, nuclear-family gatherings rather than large, extended family affairs that can feel like an Agatha Christie stage set.
Two persistent myths also plague the turkey: that it is dry and boring, and that it is exceptionally difficult to cook. These notions were, or should have been, buried by the advice of chefs like Nigella Lawson and Jamie Oliver two decades ago. Their key rules remain: bring the bird to room temperature, avoid stuffing the cavity (use only aromatics like a halved clementine and onion), and, crucially, allow a long rest of at least 90 minutes after cooking, tented under foil and a tea towel.
Exploring Delicious and Sensible Alternatives
So, how might I enjoy the festive season? Given the chance, I would likely opt for a stuffed turkey breast joint, provided the stuffing is simple—pork, sage, and onion—and not overloaded with fruit and nuts. I might also slow-cook a separate turkey leg for its rich, brown meat.
But other excellent meats are available. Succulent pork, a gorgeous ham, or a rib-roast of beef can make any feast special. While duck and goose are delicious, they yield little meat for their price. My go-to for a superb and economical centrepiece is a finest free-range chicken, or even a proper cockerel, which can outperform turkey at half the price.
After the meal, be ruthless about delegating the washing-up. And, as a certain literary character once said, God bless us, every one.
