Are you tired of the same old cod and haddock from your local fish and chip shop? Seafood experts have identified a sustainable, budget-friendly, and flavourful alternative that could revolutionise the classic British takeaway: saithe, commonly known as coley.
The 'Fish Lovers' Fish' Making Waves
Bjørn-Erik Stabell, the UK director of the Norwegian Seafood Council, is championing this underused species. He describes saithe as the 'fish lovers' fish' and 'an excellent choice'. 'It's a favourite of mine and offers a lot of great taste for the money,' Stabell told the Daily Mail. However, he notes that 'saithe has not been a fish species that has been consumed a lot in the UK.'
This member of the pollock family, found in the North Atlantic, has greyish flesh that turns white when cooked. It boasts a stronger, more intense 'fishy' flavour compared to traditional chippy staples. Despite its qualities, it remains a rare find on British menus.
A London Taste Test: Flaky, Meaty, and Mild
An investigation found only one London fish and chip restaurant currently selling coley: Golden Union on Poland Street in Soho. This retro-style chippy offers a battered coley fillet for £11, undercutting its cod and haddock (both £11.50) as well as pollock and plaice (both £12.50).
Upon tasting, the coley presented a firmer, meatier consistency with large, generous flakes. Contrary to expectations of a powerful taste, the flavour was described as delicate and mild, not at all odorous. The only initial drawback for some might be its appearance; the raw flesh is a duller, slightly grey colour compared to the pearly white of cod, though it turns white upon cooking. 'Apparently this puts a lot of diners off, which is a crying shame, because coley is a total delight,' the taste test concluded.
Sustainability and Savings: A Win-Win for Chippies
The case for coley extends beyond taste. It is a sustainable fish, with fishing methods that support the species' long-term future. This stands in stark contrast to cod and haddock, where British demand vastly exceeds sustainable supply, leading to increased prices and reduced quotas.
'Given that cod is the biggest fish category in the UK, there has been considerable industry attention on the reduced quotas for cod, which have resulted in increased prices,' explained Stabell. 'This has particularly raised concerns in the fish and chips industry.'
Nutritionally similar to its more popular cousins but significantly cheaper, coley presents a smart solution for chip shop owners facing rising costs. A spokesperson for Golden Union confirmed their long-term commitment: 'We’ve been serving coley as a sustainable choice for many years... we prefer to offer our customers a wider variety instead of relying on just one or two options.'
Beyond the classic battered fillet, coley is versatile, recommended for fish pies, fishcakes, croquettes, and rice dishes like jambalaya.
While finding coley can be a challenge, some pioneering chip shops outside London have served it, including Harrison's in Oxford, Linford's in Peterborough, and The Scrap Box in York. With pressure on traditional stocks and consumer wallets, this underrated fish might soon be swimming onto a menu near you.
