A new contender has fired up its smokers in West London, promising a serious taste of authentic American barbecue. Billy's Smokehouse has opened its doors on Goldhawk Road in Hammersmith, bringing a no-frills, meat-centric ethos to a site that stood derelict for nearly two decades.
From Derelict Restaurant to Texas-Style 'Cue Joint
The building, which was formerly an Indian restaurant until it closed in 2007, has been transformed by Cash, the son of the original owner. He nurtured a long-held dream of creating a proper US-style barbecue spot. The interior is refreshingly unfinished – the walls are bare, awaiting pictures – but the focus is squarely on the impressive cooking apparatus.
Dominating the room is the Leviathan Pits Arcadian live fire cage, a jet-black, asador-style grill described as something Thor might use. Coals glow, sauces bubble, and smoked meats hang from steel hooks. Above it, a powerful extractor fan hums. The real magic, however, happens downstairs where a monster US smoker, fuelled by oak chips, is operated by chef Tiberius Tudor. Born in Romania, Tudor honed his craft in the heart of the Texas barbecue scene.
The Meat: Halal and Hickory-Smoked
All meat served at Billy's is halal. The menu features smoked beef link sausages with a fine texture and a hint of chilli, and a substantial pulled-beef 'Briskwich' on charred brioche. The star, however, is unequivocally the sliced brisket, smoked Central Texas-style.
This is a monumental slab of meat, featuring a beautiful pink smoke ring – the hallmark of proper low-and-slow smoking – beneath a dark, savoury bark. Veins of wobbly fat run through it, and the smoke flavour is elegant, not overpowering. It's a dish that immediately establishes Billy's as a serious player, with the review noting it stands alongside the brisket from renowned London spot Smokestak.
A No-Frills Gem with Serious Potential
Billy's Smokehouse is a straightforward, dedicated barbecue joint that delivers on its core promise. With plates costing around £20 per head, it offers a cut above the usual mass-produced offerings. The review concludes that while the venue has only been open for five days, if given time, things could get very interesting indeed for London's barbecue aficionados.
Billy's Smokehouse is located at 100 Goldhawk Rd, London W12.
