Leith's Transformation: From Historic Port to Edinburgh's Creative Heart
The new Port of Leith Distillery offers stunning panoramic views over the Firth of Forth, symbolising the area's dramatic evolution. This vertical distillery, spanning nine storeys, is a testament to the innovative spirit now defining this once-gritty district. Leith, Edinburgh's historic port, has undergone a remarkable reinvention, shedding its Trainspotting era image to emerge as a vibrant cultural and culinary hub.
Why Visit Leith Now?
For centuries, Leith has served as Edinburgh's gateway, where the Water of Leith meets the sea, facilitating the flow of people, goods, and ideas. Today, it pulses with a unique energy, blending a strong, village-like community spirit with the dynamic buzz of urban creativity. The arrival of the tramline from Edinburgh city centre in 2023 has significantly enhanced accessibility, drawing more visitors and businesses to its shores.
While the area immortalised in Irvine Welsh's novel is long gone, it resists full gentrification. Recent successful local campaigns, such as opposing a Waterstones near independent Argonaut Books and reinstating benches on the Kirkgate, highlight a community fiercely protective of its identity. Leith thrives on this balance, offering a slice of authentic Edinburgh life, free from tourist clichés like tartan tat shops and out-of-tune bagpipes.
Culinary Delights and Drinking Spots
Leith's food and drink scene is exceptionally diverse, ranging from Michelin-starred establishments to cosy community cafes. Barry Fish, opened in early 2025 by chef Barry Bryson, has quickly become a local favourite, renowned for dishes like trout pastrami and lobster agnolotti. Bryson notes, "Leith has the perfect mix of old and new, serving a multicultural and varied community."
Ardfern, a cafe-bar launched in 2024 by chef Roberta Hall-McCarron and Shaun McCarron, complements their fine-dining restaurant The Little Chartroom. It's a versatile spot for brunches, lunches, or dinners, with must-try hash browns topped with innovative ingredients. Similarly, Dogstar, opened by chef James Murray, emphasises community connection, offering dishes like shellfish from the coals and anchovy sauce-dipped focaccia in a welcoming atmosphere.
Cultural Experiences and Artistic Spaces
Leith's artistic community flourishes in spaces like Custom Lane, a collaborative design hub in the old Custom House building. Here, Bard gallery showcases contemporary Scottish design in a domestic setting, curated by Hugo Macdonald and James Stevens. Across the river, Brown's of Leith, a transformed Victorian warehouse by GRAS architects, hosts food ventures like ShrimpWreck, Haze, and Civerinos, fostering creativity and collaboration.
Architect Gunnar Groves-Raines explains, "At Brown's, we identified a need for spaces that genuinely support creativity." Joseph Radford of Haze adds, "Leith has a strong, independent identity rooted in history; we aim to respond to that." Additional venues like Drill Hall and Coburg House Art Studios ensure a constant stream of cultural events, while the Leith theatre's restoration promises future artistic splendour.
Independent Shopping and Local Gems
Shopping in Leith means supporting independents. Argonaut Books, nestled in the old train station, is a haven for bibliophiles, complete with a cafe and events. For unique gifts, Logan Malloch, Flux, and Handsel on Leith Walk feature works by local artists. Wine enthusiasts should visit the tiny Bludge for interesting selections.
Don't Miss Attractions
Beyond the Royal Yacht Britannia, the Port of Leith Distillery stands out with its fascinating tours and unparalleled views. Stroll along the Water of Leith path, then explore the flourishing craft brewery scene at taprooms like Moonwake, Campervan, and Newbarns for a fresh pint.
Where to Stay
Accommodation options cater to various budgets. Malmaison Edinburgh offers smart riverside rooms from £77, while Fingal, a converted lighthouse tender, provides luxury cabins from £269 for a unique overnight experience moored in Leith.
