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The Enchanting Greek Island Where Travellers Can Avoid Tourist Throngs – Even During Peak Season
Paros, as discovered by US Travel Editor Ted Thornhill, continues to fly under the radar despite its undeniable allure. Thursday 29 January 2026 11:37 GMT.
US Travel Editor Ted Thornhill ventures to Paros. "Did they wear pirate hats?" inquires my eight-year-old daughter to our skipper, Vasilis. "Of course. I'm sure they did," he responds, indulging her curiosity. We are gently rocking in a speedboat, anchored during a private cruise in a breathtaking hidden cove off the coast of the Greek island of Paros, learning from Vasilis that pirates historically used this precise location for smuggling contraband.
A Rich Tapestry of History and Invasion
These marauders pillaged Paros for centuries from the seventh century onward, compelling locals to abandon coastal areas and construct villages inland, hidden from seaborne assaults. Numerous other civilisations have also left their imprint, with the island successively inhabited by Cretans, Minoans, Ionians, Arcadians, Macedonians, Romans, and Byzantines.
Nowadays, I find that it is predominantly Italian and French tourists who frequent this Cycladic jewel, with the French contingent swelling notably when our group arrives for an August holiday. Our party consists of five families with ten children in total, and more than half of our assembly are French.
Finding a Family Haven in Dryos
We virtually commandeer the Nissiotiko Hotel in the village of Dryos, and by the conclusion of our stay, we unanimously agree that this establishment and the island it resides upon are exceptionally difficult to surpass as a choice for a family retreat. It is a delightful locale for children, remarkably free from crowds even during the busiest season, and as picturesque as one might envision a Greek island to be after watching Mamma Mia, complete with idyllic coastlines and villages that seem plucked from a Greek tourism brochure.
However, our arrival does not exactly mirror a scene from the film. The initial segment involves a 6.10am easyJet flight from Gatwick to Mykonos, the aircraft largely occupied by poseur passengers adorned in yoga attire and fixed Botox expressions.
The Journey from Mykonos to Paros
After landing, awaiting chauffeurs disperse them to the island's stylish hotels, while we proceed directly to the docks to catch a ferry to Paros. The port is expansive and nondescript, though the "Cantina" cafe there serves pleasant pastries and satisfactory coffee. Regrettably, overpowering dance music is also part of the offering.
With beats sufficiently loud to create ripples in our beverages, we relocate to a tranquil, shaded waiting area. From there, we intermittently venture into the scorching heat to observe the captivating spectacle of massive ferries docking amidst turbulent, azure waters.
It is the Piccadilly Circus of ferry terminals, with services departing for islands throughout the Cyclades, as well as Crete and mainland Greece. Our Seajets catamaran is a discouraging ninety minutes late, and the voyage is framed by somewhat chaotic scenes.
Navigating the Ferry and Arrival in Parikia
We board via the vast car deck ramp alongside hundreds of others hauling similarly enormous suitcases and grapple to stow our luggage on metal shelves as the vessel sways in the swell. This is no Cunard liner. Nevertheless, our business class seats, which cost merely an additional €10 (approximately £8.70), are exceedingly comfortable, we have a large table for playing Dobble, and observing the wake from the upper deck is exhilarating.
It's Paros ahoy after roughly forty minutes, and we disembark from the hull of the boat with the multitude at the lively port of Parikia, the island's capital, edging forward in a sea of sunglasses and sandals. So, no quaint Mamma Mia jetty, but Paros's charms swiftly become evident.
Setting Up Base at Nissiotiko Hotel
After taking a €25 (£22) taxi south to the airport to collect an Alamo Suzuki Swift, reserved effortlessly via booking.com, we drive for twenty minutes to the fishing village of Dryos on the southeast coast, home to the Nissiotiko Hotel.
This twenty-two-room sanctuary, managed by the tall yet genial Fragiskos, serves as an outstanding base for exploring the island and an enchanting spot for round-the-clock relaxation. The magnetic allure is such that excursions seldom commence before midday, despite the best of intentions. Here, time appears unshackled.
The property, featuring unpretentious yet comfortable and spacious air-conditioned rooms with surprisingly rapid wifi, occupies a soul-stirring position, perched directly above a petite beach and the inviting Aegean waters. A pathway meanders through a sea-view rock-garden terrace, connecting it with shops, tavernas, and other small hotels. Meanwhile, the mountainous Naxos, the largest island in the Cyclades archipelago, looms mysteriously in the background, opposite the uninhabited Drios Island.
Establishing a Daily Island Rhythm
A daily routine is promptly established – an itinerary is crafted over breakfast beneath the lofty Aleppo pine tree on the terrace, a quick plunge into the turquoise waters follows for most, and with the sun still moderate, I jog along the cliffs to adjacent Golden Beach.
This location boasts the reputation of being the overall finest stretch of sand on the island, largely, I presume, due to its majestic sweep of golden grains, bath-warm shallow waters, and abundant amenities ranging from tavernas and sun loungers to windsurfing lessons and inflatable doughnut rides.
Discovering Secluded Beaches and Picturesque Villages
We relish a brief period here, but throughout the week, we prefer utilising the thirty-four-mile-long main road that encircles the island like a strand of spaghetti to uncover more secluded beaches. Tripiti beach, a few minutes west of Dryos, is an excellent spot, generously dotted with French tamarisk trees providing shade, with refreshments available from the superb Glyfa Café, which offers amiable service, delectable coffee, and irresistible Greek salads.
Petri beach, a couple of coves further west, is challenging to access but worthwhile. The "car park" here is a rocky patch of grass on the hillside, and we must trek down a narrow pathway to reach the water. The reward is a serene inlet with astonishingly clear water, ample space to spread out, and clusters of tamarisk trees again offering shelter from the sun during our picnic.
Exploring Naoussa and Other Charming Settlements
We also allocate time to explore Naoussa on the north coast, where contemporary meets rustic charm with mesmerising effect. Here, we wander from one glossy shop to another through a labyrinth of ancient alleyways and enjoy a magnificent lunch at the Comeback taverna as waves lap the adjacent beach.
The quaint seaside villages of Aliki, where taverna tables are situated directly on the beach, and Piso Livadi rival Naoussa in photogenic appeal. Yet, in the island's centre, beneath Paros's highest peak, the 2,529-foot Mount Agii Pantes, lies perhaps the island's most adorable settlement: the fifteenth-century Lefkes, constructed inland to evade those pirate raids.
Venturing to Antiparos and Its Allure
Captivated partly by the possibility of spotting Tom Hanks, on the penultimate full day we take the ten-minute car ferry from the port of Pounda on the west coast to Antiparos, where the actor owns a residence concealed in the hills. A shopkeeper discloses that he has been sighted recently and frequents an ice-cream shop named Vicky in Antiparos town.
The A-list celebrity remains elusive, but the reasons why Paros's smaller sibling attracts Hanks and other notable figures become readily apparent. In Antiparos town, there is a blend of chic boutique shops and enticing tavernas, while beyond lie secret coves and secluded lanes, one of which we follow to the tranquil and alluring Livadi beach, just below the luxurious Rooster hotel.
A Memorable Finale: The Speedboat Excursion
Our speedboat excursion is a last-minute addition to the schedule on the final day. Fragiskos had suggested booking one from Aliki, but according to the websites we consult on the day, all trips are sold out. "Go down to the port," advises Fragiskos. "You might get lucky." His guidance proves invaluable.
We converse waterside with friendly staff from Seacret Cruises, who disclose they have one six-person speedboat available for a private sunset tour. While the cost is considerable at €490 (£424), the experience is immeasurable. At the hidden pirate cove, Vasilis instructs my daughter to leap in and "search for treasure." In she plunges, with squeals of joy.
Why Paros Remains a Treasured Discovery
Beneath, we observe enormous sponges attached to the rocks as schools of fish dart about. Subsequently, we pause at the "blue lagoon," a section of water between Paros and Antiparos named for its striking sapphire hue. Here, we share our swim with a colossal sea snail the size of a football feeding on the seabed.
Finally, Vasilis drops anchor near an unnamed islet featuring an impossibly tiny church for snacks and wine, watching the final sunrays extend over the water. And while we do not unearth any booty within it, it does not prevent Paros from being Treasure Island in my estimation.
Practical Information for Your Paros Adventure
How to Get There
EasyJet operates ten direct flights weekly from London Gatwick to Mykonos, with fares from £26 one-way. Alternatively, fly to Athens and then to the small airport on Paros.
Up to eight ferries depart daily from Mykonos to Paros, depending on the season, operated by Seajets, Golden Star Ferries, Fast Ferries, and Blue Star Ferries. Fares start from £25 one-way.
Getting Around
Car hire is essential to fully experience the island. Prices commence at approximately £20 per day, varying by vehicle and season.
Where to Stay
Nissiotiko Hotel offers rooms from around £100. Breakfast is available from £4.50 per person.
Ted's journey was supported by Booking.com and EasyJet. This article was initially published on 9 September 2025 and has been revised.
