Island-Hopping in Sweden's Gothenburg Archipelago: An Enchanted Maze of Tiny Isles
Just a short bus ride from Sweden's vibrant second city, Gothenburg, lies a breathtaking archipelago of over 260,000 islands, where natural wonders await intrepid explorers. This northern Gothenburg archipelago offers a serene escape into a world of bioluminescent seas, rare wildlife, and historic charm, all easily accessible from urban life.
A Night-Time Paddle Through Bioluminescent Waters
Out on the water, as dusk fades and stars emerge, kayaking between the rocky islands becomes a magical experience. Under the guidance of local expert Jennie, paddlers can witness the sea flicker into life with every stroke. The water erupts in trails of cold, blue sparkles, a phenomenon known locally as 'sea fire'. This bioluminescence, caused by microorganisms in the water, creates an electrifying display that transforms the dark sea into a nebulous network of light.
Jennie recalls childhood memories of throwing stones to trigger these luminous displays, a tradition now enhanced by the archipelago's minimal light pollution. The experience is best enjoyed without cameras, allowing travellers to immerse fully in nature's spectacle. Below the surface, squadrons of jellyfish add their own spectral pulses, completing this otherworldly aquatic show.
Navigating the Archipelago's Coastal Trails
The journey begins with a brief ferry ride to Hälsö, one of only ten inhabited islands in this northern section. From there, a new 21.7-mile coastal trail, part of the longer Kuststigen path connecting Gothenburg to Oslo, winds through the islands using bridges, causeways, and ferries. This network makes island-hopping remarkably straightforward, despite the maze-like geography.
Base yourself at Skärgårdshotellet on Hönö, where quiet cafes and restaurants offer respite outside peak summer holidays. The trail from Hönö to Fotö involves crossing a soaring bridge and navigating boulder-strewn paths that delight scramblers and leapers. The rock formations, adorned with striations, crystallisation, and lichen, create natural adventure playgrounds that slow progress in the most enjoyable way.
Marine Excursions and Local Lore
Boat trips with seasoned sailor Lasse provide another perspective on the archipelago. Aboard his veteran fishing vessel, visitors can wend through uninhabited islands to Vinga, a rocky outcrop once home to Swedish folk music balladeer Evert Taube. While seal sightings aren't guaranteed, the journey through these remote waters is reward enough.
Evenings in Hönö's Tullhuset restaurant offer harbour views and local stories. Owner Preben Pedersen shares the islands' musical heritage, rooted in church traditions but enlivened by rebellious figures like Arne I Bora, who performed rougher melodies in Moonshine Bay during prohibition times. This blend of piety and piracy defines the archipelago's character.
Adventure and Mystery on Remote Shores
For active travellers, bouldering with local climber Andreas Lundqvist at Ersdalen combines physical challenge with stunning seascapes. Andreas's tales of growing up on the islands add depth to the experience, while the Västtrafik app simplifies ferry connections to further islands like Rörö.
Here, misty weather enhances the sparse, mysterious beauty, with wild ponies roaming among bogs and lichen-crusted boulders. The archipelago's accessibility belies its feeling of remoteness, creating a unique blend of convenience and wilderness.
The Haunting Church of Öckerö
No visit is complete without exploring the old church on Öckerö, a source of childhood terror for locals like Jennie. Dating from the 1450s, this red-roofed Scandinavian church hides astonishing ceiling frescoes painted in 1792. The rear depicts a vivid hellscape of fire-breathing monsters torturing sinners, while the front shows salvation through floating figures and trumpets.
Gaining access requires contacting the verger, but the effort reveals why island children were terrified. This artistic tour de force serves as a moral compass, perhaps warning against the temptations of Moonshine Bay while offering hope of redemption.
Practical Travel Information
Returning to Gothenburg involves just a couple of bus rides and a ferry, leaving travellers dazed as if from a distant land. Evening kayak tours with Jennie Walker start from £63 per person, while bouldering adventures with Andreas Lundqvist begin at £115. Boat trips with Lasse are available from £20, and doubles at Skårgårdshotellet start from £93.
This trip demonstrates how accessible wilderness can be, proving that profound natural experiences lie just beyond city limits. The Gothenburg archipelago offers not just island-hopping, but a journey into Sweden's coastal soul, where bioluminescence illuminates the water and frescoed churches guard island secrets.
