On a bleak, wet winter's day, few sights are more inviting than the warm glow of a countryside inn. For me, a visit to The Fox in St Brides Major, a charming village in the Vale of Glamorgan, was driven by three compelling reasons.
A Pub with a Celebrity Pedigree
Firstly, the establishment boasted a strong reputation for its food. Secondly, having cycled past it innumerable times, the temptation to abandon my bike for a pint was constant. But the third and most significant reason was its owner: Welsh rugby icon and Strictly Come Dancing star Gavin Henson.
My personal connection dates back 20 years to the day Henson, not even Wales' first-choice kicker, secured a legendary victory over England with a monstrous 44-metre kick in Cardiff. That moment heralded a new era for Welsh rugby and catapulted Henson to superstardom.
With his distinctive style, he became a tabloid fixture, part of a celebrity power couple with singer Charlotte Church, and later showcased his talents on Strictly Come Dancing and The Bachelor. Despite the fame, a recent podcast suggests Henson now prefers a quiet family life in St Brides Major, shunning the spotlight.
First Impressions and a Cosy Welcome
Henson and his wife Katie took over The Fox in 2019, reopening after a major renovation in February 2020, just before the pandemic lockdowns. Despite early chef recruitment challenges, the pub now operates with assured ease.
Stepping inside, the atmosphere was instantly homely yet stylish. Flagstone floors, dark blue and off-white walls, and rustic wooden furniture created a classic feel, enhanced by tasteful Christmas decorations. We settled into a lovely corner booth with an in-built sofa, sipping a Butty Bach ale (£5) and Jeremy Clarkson's Hawkstone lager (£7) while perusing the menu.
The Sunday Lunch Verdict
The Sunday menu was pleasingly concise. For starters, we chose the crispy ham hock with confit egg yolk, fennel and apple (£9) and a cod and salmon fishcake with samphire and caper butter (£9). Both featured perfectly crisp, golden exteriors giving way to soft, flavourful centres, with the confit egg yolk being a particular visual delight.
Our mains were exemplary. The roast sirloin of Welsh beef (£23) was a generous, pink portion, while the shoulder of Welsh lamb (£23) was arguably some of the best I've ever tasted—a crispy, salty outer layer protected meltingly tender meat within. The dishes were served with all the classic trimmings: roast potatoes, exceptionally buttery mash, carrots, parsnips, greens, a large Yorkshire pudding, and gravy. We also ordered two children's meals for £8 each.
Sadly, we had no room for desserts like sticky toffee pudding or chocolate orange marquise. The final bill for two starters, two mains, two kids' meals, two beers, and a juice came to £91 (my personal share being £37).
The Final Verdict
The overall experience was superb. The setting was so comfortable I could have stayed all afternoon. The sentiment was echoed by neighbouring diners, with one declaring she was "definitely gonna come back." Those four words perfectly encapsulated my own feelings. While I was slightly disappointed not to catch a glimpse of my sporting hero, The Fox stands firmly on its own merits as a delightful country pub serving excellent food.
