Maria Grazia Chiuri has officially launched her tenure as the creative director of Fendi with a debut collection that prominently features fur and outerwear, presented during Milan Fashion Week in Rome. The event drew a star-filled front row, including notable figures such as Uma Thurman and Jessica Alba, who mirrored the runway styles with their own attire.
Star-Studded Attendance and Protests
The front row was packed with celebrities, with Uma Thurman wearing a classic white blouse under a dark blazer and Jessica Alba in a double-breasted pantsuit, both reflecting designs from the collection. Other attendees included Dakota Fanning, Monica Bellucci, and K-pop stars like Fendi ambassador Bang Chan. Outside the venue, hundreds of K-pop fans gathered with homemade signs, while a dozen anti-fur protesters demonstrated across the street, highlighting the ongoing debate around fur in fashion.
Heritage and Modern Design Elements
Fendi, founded a century ago in Rome as a furrier and leather goods maker, showcased its heritage with strong fur looks on the runway. These ranged from bomber jackets to patchwork coats, with wispy fur collars complementing silken dresses and sheer, beaded eveningwear. Fur-lined hoods adorned parkas, and plush collars topped trench coats, emphasizing the collection's focus on outerwear.
Dark blazers and overcoats defined the opening looks, layered over trousers, casual dresses, and sheer lace. Lace was reinterpreted on laser-cut leather dresses, anchored by starched white collars and dainty bangles. The collection also featured boho florals, a sheer Art Deco-style dress, and a smattering of denim and animal prints, punctuating a mostly black and navy palette.
Chiuri's Career and Industry Context
Chiuri's debut was one of the most highly anticipated events during this Milan Fashion Week, which primarily featured womenswear collections. She began her career at Fendi as a handbag designer and later served as co-creative director of Valentino and creative director of Dior. Her appointment is part of a broader creative director shuffle in European fashion, which has been male-dominated, with Chiuri among a handful of women taking top roles at major houses. Others include Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta and Meryll Rogge at Marni.
Silvia Venturini Fendi, who stepped aside as creative director last fall, attended the show from the front row, marking her first time watching a Fendi runway show from that perspective. She expressed that the experience was very moving, having previously been busy backstage during events.
