When discussing the world's premier fashion capitals, the conversation traditionally revolved around four established hubs: New York, London, Milan, and Paris. While these cities retain their prestigious status, numerous other urban centres—from Berlin and Seoul to Lagos—have actively competed for recognition as the coveted "fifth fashion week." Yet, one city has distinctly emerged as the frontrunner in this race: Copenhagen. This week, the Danish showcase commences celebrations for its 20th anniversary, marking two decades of propelling homegrown talent like Ganni to international fame while pioneering rigorous sustainability standards within the industry.
From Humble Beginnings to Global Calendar Staple
What originated in 2006 as the merger of two modest trade fairs has evolved into a significant biannual event on the international fashion calendar. Today, it attracts editors from prestigious publications such as Vogue, buyers from global luxury retailers, and droves of influencers drawn to its renowned street style scene. However, its inception was met with considerable scepticism. Cecilie Thorsmark, the Chief Executive of Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW), describes the showcase's founder, former Eurowoman magazine editor Eva Kruse, as "a visionary."
"She set out from the start to make it the fifth fashion week," Thorsmark notes. "But she was met with a lot of doubt. People found her vision to be unrealistic. Yet, here we are today." This perseverance has paid dividends, with the Danish fashion industry growing substantially since CPHFW's launch. Fashion is now Denmark's third-largest export commodity, with international demand from countries including the United States and Germany soaring by 84%. The sector currently represents 5% of Denmark's total merchandise exports.
Scandinavian Appeal and International Demand
The global appeal of Danish design is evident in its reception abroad. Linda Cui Zhang, Fashion Director of the luxury retail chain Nordstrom, which operates across 39 US states, explains that Danish brands resonate with customers because they "embody principles of the Scandinavian lifestyle." She highlights brands like Cecilie Bahnsen, known for its intricately romantic and versatile dresses, and Lié Studio, celebrated for its sculptural jewellery designed for daily wear.
Sustainability: A Framework for Industry Change
Reflecting on the 20-year milestone, Thorsmark identifies the successful implementation of CPHFW's sustainability framework as a paramount achievement. In a bold move for an industry often criticised for greenwashing, the organisation introduced 18 minimum standards in 2020. Brands were given three years to comply with requirements ranging from banning plastic hangers to regulating textile use, or face exclusion from the schedule.
While several brands initially failed to meet these criteria, today more than 30 brands adhere to the standards. This initiative has inspired fashion councils in Britain and Germany to follow suit. Thorsmark asserts that the framework has "really underlined the potential of taking a fashion week and transforming it from a showcase event to a catalyst for change."
Homegrown Success Stories: Ganni and Beyond
One of Denmark's most notable fashion success stories is Ganni, a brand that has popularised everything from leopard-print jeans to fruit-emblazoned T-shirts, achieving a valuation of £500 million in 2022. Following in the footsteps of fellow Danish brand Cecilie Bahnsen, Ganni recently decamped to present at Paris Fashion Week, the pinnacle of the fashion world. Ditte Reffstrup, Ganni's Creative Director, credits CPHFW as instrumental to the brand's international ascent.
"There is no doubt Copenhagen fashion week has been our main stage and helped us to become an international brand," Reffstrup states. The brand's biannual presentations from 2014, which spawned the #GanniGirls street style phenomenon, were crucial to its growth.
This sentiment is echoed by Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave, co-founders of Baum und Pferdgarten. Participating in CPHFW's inaugural edition, they recall a time when family members helped build the catwalk and friends assisted with seating cards, with audiences comprised mainly of local or Scandinavian press. Two decades later, their brand is stocked in over 30 countries.
"In the beginning the shows were far more primitive and intimate," Baumgarten reflects. "It felt much more amateur. Copenhagen fashion week has changed enormously, and it has been a crucial platform for our growth as a brand. Giving us visibility, credibility, and the opportunity to evolve from something very local into something truly international."
Nurturing Talent and Welcoming Brands Home
Reffstrup emphasises CPHFW's vital role in supporting emerging talent, noting that Ganni now provides patronage and mentorship to up-and-coming Nordic brands. "You can very easily drown in Paris or Milan," she observes. "There are so many brands to compete with and even to get a time slot on the schedule is difficult. Here in Copenhagen you are centre-stage."
Marking its 20th year, CPHFW has introduced a new annual "homecoming" slot designed to welcome back brands that have presented elsewhere. Holzweiler, which recently showed in London, will be the first to participate in this initiative, inspired by Cecilie Bahnsen's decision to stage her 10th-anniversary show in Copenhagen last August rather than Paris.
Thorsmark clarifies the organisation's philosophy: "The ambition will never be to keep brands in Copenhagen for ever but to support them in whatever feels relevant for the brand itself so that they continue to develop and thrive. Even though we do miss the brands incredibly, it's a positive progression that shows the potential of what we can nurture in Copenhagen." As it celebrates two decades of influence, Copenhagen Fashion Week solidifies its position not just as a showcase, but as a sustainable and nurturing force within the global fashion landscape.
