The glittering, divisive world of Emily in Paris has taken a stylish detour to the Italian capital for its fifth season, finding a newfound sartorial freedom far from the critical gaze of Parisian fashion purists. The Netflix series, which recently earned its creator Darren Star a knighthood in France's Legion of Honour from President Emmanuel Macron, has long weathered criticism for its protagonist's brash, colourful wardrobe.
A Presidential Seal of Approval Amidst Parisian Disdain
The show's global success in promoting French culture was formally recognised by Emmanuel Macron on Monday, who named Star a knight. This marks a significant shift from the initial backlash, where the over-the-top outfits of Lily Collins's Emily Cooper were seen as an affront to Parisian sensibilities. Costume designer Marylin Fitoussi, who took over from Patricia Field, expressed surprise at the intensity of the reaction, particularly to Emily's beret.
"We didn't just want to upset the French – we wanted to make them cry," Fitoussi wrote in her new book, Emily in Paris: The Fashion Guide. She attributes the resistance to a deeply ingrained seriousness in French fashion philosophy, where smiling or wearing colour can be deemed 'tacky'.
La Dolce Vita: A Liberating Roman Holiday for Fashion
With the new season, Emily has relocated to Rome, a move that has liberated the costume department. Fitoussi relished the escape from the French 'fashion police', finding Italy more receptive to the show's core ethos of breaking rules and having fun. Drawing inspiration from classic cinema like La Dolce Vita and Roman Holiday, Emily's Roman wardrobe is more refined yet vivid.
Her looks now feature romantic 1950s silhouettes, tulip skirts, coordinating sets, and a bold embrace of polka dots – a direct nod to the iconic styles of Sophia Loren and Claudia Cardinale. The styling also integrates and name-checks iconic Italian brands such as Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, and Moschino. Emily's new love interest, Marcello, played by Eugenio Franceschini, is the heir to a cashmere company, echoing real-life brand Brunello Cucinelli.
Proportions and Polish: Emily's New Roman Look
The character's transformation is underscored by a modern, sexy bob haircut, adopted after Lily Collins cut her own hair. Fitoussi noted this required rethinking outfit proportions to achieve a more powerful, Parisian look. In Rome, Emily is frequently seen in flat shoes, exaggerated power suits, and playful twists on classics, like a polka-dot denim set for a night of pasta and dancing.
For the season finale set during Venice Fashion Week, Fitoussi chose an off-white spotted two-piece from Stine Goya. She welcomes polarising critiques from fashion watchdogs, stating that strong reactions – whether calling looks 'spectacular' or 'hideous' – are a mark of success.
While a sixth season is unconfirmed, Fitoussi is hopeful of fully realising her vision of "French chic, with this spicy Cooper touch." She has already sourced a John Galliano for Dior skirt suit from 1997, envisioning Emily in head-to-toe grey, sans print. Perhaps then, at last, the Parisians might be pleased.
