Demna has officially launched his first Gucci runway show in Milan, steering the iconic brand back towards a sleek, body-hugging aesthetic that emphasises sex appeal. The collection, presented during Milan Fashion Week on Friday, 27 February 2026, featured a range of looks that evoked the sensual heyday of Tom Ford's tenure at Gucci.
A New Vision for Gucci
Set against a backdrop of classical statuary, Demna introduced his new direction with a skin-tight white minidress and clean muscle T-shirts that highlighted the chiseled human form. He described these initial pieces as "palette cleansers," with models moving with a confident, morning-after swagger. The body-conscious silhouette evolved into slim trousers and tops for men, and leggings with long, clingy dresses for women, strongly reminiscent of Ford's sex-fueled era at Gucci.
Nods to Gucci Heritage
The collection also paid tribute to more recent Gucci alumni, including Alessandro Michele, now creative director at Valentino, who was seated in the front row. These references appeared in a floral gown, a daysuit featuring a pussybow, and furry slip-on shoes. Demna embraced classical sensuality, evident in an asymmetrical white dress that draped elegantly and opened into a full slit.
Notably, some classic Gucci staples were scarce, such as overcoats and suits, and the collection was light on overt branding. Demna explored various archetypes, including the "sciura"—posh Milanese upper-class women in pretty dresses with eco-fur stoles—contrasted with the "maranza," suburban males known for their distinctive hairstyles and slouching walk, both represented on the runway.
Kate Moss's Show-Stopping Finale
Supermodel Kate Moss closed the show in a glittering evening gown that plunged dramatically at the back to reveal a double-G-branded thong. Moss moved sensually down the long, dark runway, captivating the audience and soaking in the moment, symbolising the collection's bold, sensual direction.
Demna's Philosophy and Future Plans
Titled "Primavera," Italian for "spring," the show drew inspiration from Sandro Botticelli's masterpiece in Florence's Uffizi Gallery, influencing Gucci's floral patterns seen primarily in the gowns. Demna distanced himself from intellectual interpretations, stating in notes that the collection "is built around a sense of pragmatism." He expressed a desire for Gucci to become "lighter, softer, more refined, more elaborate, more emotional, even senseless sometimes," emphasising that Gucci should be a feeling rather than an intellectual pursuit.
This approach positions Gucci for a broader audience, albeit one with the means to afford it, moving away from the rarified couture world. In line with this, Gucci announced that parts of the collection would be available for immediate sale through a see-now, buy-now model. Demna wrote, "My vision of Gucci is about the coexistence of heritage and fashion ... Gucci only exists when both are in sync. This first Gucci show introduces a universe of people, archetypes, consumers and dress codes that will shape my design language moving forward."
Star-Studded Front Row
The event attracted a glamorous front row, including Paris Hilton, Nicky Hilton, Donatella Versace, and Demi Moore, who arrived in a fitted leather ensemble carrying her dog Pilaf, adding to the show's celebrity allure and highlighting its cultural impact.
