On Wednesday, a constellation of celebrities descended upon Milan Fashion Week to witness Maria Grazia Chiuri's highly anticipated creative debut for Fendi. The 62-year-old designer, renowned for her nine-year tenure at Dior, returned to the Italian fashion house where she began her illustrious career as a handbag maker in 1989. This debut, titled "Less I, More Us," unveiled the autumn/winter 2026/27 collection, signaling a bold new era for the century-old brand.
Star-Studded Front Row
The front row was a spectacle of glamour, featuring model Iris Law, 25, alongside Hollywood icons Uma Thurman, 55, and Dakota Fanning, 32. Iris exuded effortless sophistication in a black slip dress paired with a luxurious furry cape, accessorized with diamonds, oversized sunglasses, and an Audrey Hepburn-inspired hairstyle. Uma showcased chic minimalism in a crisp white shirt and tailored suit trousers, while Dakota added a daring touch with a glimpse of lingerie beneath her black suit ensemble.
Celebrity Style Highlights
Jessica Alba, 44, arrived with her 14-year-old daughter, Haven Garner, both radiating elegance in coordinated Fendi attire. Jessica donned a sophisticated three-piece suit and heels, while her daughter complemented the look with youthful flair. Yasmin Finney made a statement with a double denim outfit and a striking tiger print bag, adding a playful edge to the showcase. Additionally, Chiara Ferragni graced the event in a silk dress and a long furry cardigan, further emphasizing the collection's luxurious textures.
Controversy Over Real Fur
The show garnered significant attention not only for its design debut but also for Fendi's contentious decision to continue incorporating real fur into its collection. This choice ignited debate within the fashion industry, reflecting the brand's heritage as a furrier and leather goods maker founded a century ago in Rome. On the runway, heritage fur looks were prominently featured, from bomber jackets to intricate patchwork coats. Delicate fur collars adorned silken dresses and sheer, beaded eveningwear, while plush-lined hoods and collars enhanced parkas and trench coats.
Collection Details
The autumn/winter 2026/27 collection opened with a series of dark blazers and overcoats, layered over trousers, casual dresses, and sheer lace ensembles. Lace was innovatively reinterpreted on laser-cut leather dresses, accentuated by starched white collars and delicate bangles. The palette predominantly featured black and navy, punctuated by brief appearances of boho florals, a sheer Art Deco-style dress, and accents of denim and animal prints. This artistic direction underscored Chiuri's vision of blending tradition with contemporary flair.
Industry Impact and Fan Frenzy
Maria Grazia Chiuri's debut was one of the most awaited events during this Milan Fashion Week, which focused largely on womenswear collections. Her career trajectory—from Fendi handbag designer to co-creative director at Valentino and creative director at Dior—highlights her influential role in reshaping European fashion. Notably, Chiuri stands among a select group of women, including Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta and Meryll Rogge at Marni, who are breaking the male-dominated trend in top creative positions at major fashion houses.
The event also drew a fervent crowd outside the venue, where hundreds of K-pop fans gathered with homemade signs and artwork to support Fendi ambassador Bang Chan of Stray Kids. Simultaneously, a dozen anti-fur protesters staged a demonstration across the street, underscoring the polarizing nature of the brand's fur use. Silvia Venturini Fendi, who stepped down as creative director last fall, attended the show from the front row, expressing emotional resonance as she watched a Fendi runway presentation for the first time without backstage duties.
