The iconic, voluminous hairstyles of the 1980s are officially back in vogue, but with a crucial 21st-century twist. Spotted on red carpets from London to Los Angeles, stars like Sabrina Carpenter, Doja Cat, and Simone Ashley are championing a return to big, bouncy hair. However, this contemporary revival pointedly rejects the helmet-hard hairspray and rigid perms of its predecessor.
The Modern Blueprint: Softness Over Stiffness
The fundamental shift in today's big hair trend is a focus on movement and touchable texture. Celebrity hairstylist Jason Collier, founder of Studio23, explains the core philosophy. "Big hair is back, but it’s had a very modern makeover. The key difference now is softness," he states. "You want lift and fullness, but with movement and ‘touchability’, not rigid structure. Your hair should look as though it can move."
This new wave of volume begins long before you pick up a styling tool. According to Collier, the right haircut is the essential first step to creating the illusion of fullness. He advises asking your stylist for long, feathered layers placed strategically through the crown and around the face to encourage natural lift. "You don’t want heavy, blunt lines because they drag volume down," he cautions.
For those with curly hair, precision cutting is even more critical. Curly hair expert and Curlsmith ambassador Nicola Harrowell emphasises that "the cut is everything." She recommends requesting rounded layers specifically designed for curly textures, which allow curls to spring up and out rather than being weighed down. The goal is to enhance natural shape, not force it.
Product Philosophy: Support, Don't Smother
What truly separates the modern look from a retro throwback is the approach to products. The era of heavy, coating creams and stiff-hold sprays is over. Jason Collier warns against products that make hair look "crunchy and flat very quickly." Instead, he champions lightweight formulations like root-lifting sprays, fine texture mists, and light mousses that provide grip and volume without sacrificing softness.
Nicola Harrowell echoes this sentiment for curly hair, recommending a lightweight mousse to give curls lift and hold while maintaining their bounce. For those who prefer gel, she suggests diluting it with water to create a "juicy texture that isn’t too crunchy." The universal rule is that volume should feel airy, not coated.
Styling Secrets for Maximum Lift
When it comes to blow-drying, a universal professional trick is directional drying. "Drying the roots in the opposite direction to how the hair naturally falls instantly creates lift," Collier reveals. He also suggests flipping your head upside down for the initial few minutes of drying for an instant volume boost.
For straight to wavy hair, stylist Sophie Chandler from RUSH Hair recommends using a large round brush. "Blow dry the hair back and forth away from the root, lifting the hair to achieve a texturised, voluminous finish!" she advises. For curly hair, gentle diffusing is key. Harrowell recommends diffusing with your head tilted or upside down on low heat and airflow to encourage root lift without disturbing the natural curl pattern.
Classic large rollers remain a stylist's secret weapon for achieving lasting shape without stiffness, especially when left in the hair as it cools.
The Foundation of All Volume: Hair Health
Every expert consulted underscores one non-negotiable principle: healthy hair is the true foundation of volume. Sophie Chandler issues a stern warning against heat styling without adequate protection, which "strips the hair of its natural moisture, while severely weakening the structure." Her advice is to use a heat protectant spray every single time you apply heat.
Jason Collier concurs, stating simply, "Healthy hair always looks fuller, so protection is non-negotiable. Don’t overdo it day after day." For curly hair, hydration is paramount. Harrowell notes that well-moisturised curls appear fuller, shinier, and more defined, often with minimal styling effort.
The 80s hair revival, as seen on Friday 16 January 2026 and championed by today's biggest stars, is ultimately a celebration of body and movement. By focusing on strategic cuts, lightweight products, smart styling techniques, and unwavering hair health, anyone can conquer the volume trend—without any of the dreaded crunch.
