Paris Men's Fashion Week 2026: A Focus on Sharp Dressing and Lasting Style
The recent Paris Men's Fashion Week drew to a close on Sunday, leaving a distinct impression on the industry. Throughout the various runway presentations, two consistent messages emerged: the importance of dressing sharply and the imperative to create clothing built to endure. This season's collections moved beyond fleeting trends, emphasising quality construction and thoughtful design that promises longevity.
The Resurgence of the Coat as a Statement Piece
This season unequivocally placed the coat at the forefront of men's fashion. Designers showcased long, meticulously tailored outerwear designed to command attention. At Hermès, Véronique Nichanian concluded her remarkable 37-year tenure with a powerful final men's show, featuring a standout dark coat crafted from glossy crocodile leather. The collection also included aviator-inspired shearling bombers, distinctive earflap caps, and stand-up buckle collars, complemented by accessories like structured overnight bags and boots with vibrant orange soles.
Junya Watanabe similarly centred his collection on the coat, presenting classic iterations in camel and navy. His innovative approach involved blending these formal pieces with sportier elements, such as bomber jacket backs and leather jacket fronts, thereby infusing traditional outerwear with a tougher, contemporary sensibility.
Reconstructed Tailoring: A New Silhouette
A significant trend involved designers deconstructing and rebuilding classic suiting rather than merely styling it. At Sacai, creative director Chitose Abe introduced novel sections to jackets, trousers, and outerwear through additional panels, pockets, and quilted inserts, often organised around a triangular theme. The collection seamlessly transitioned from tailored looks to workwear and robust denim, including notable collaborations with Levi's and A.P.C., all while maintaining a clear focus on reshaping the male silhouette without compromising wearability.
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, under Rei Kawakubo, adopted a more radical approach. The collection featured black suits and coats with deliberately altered lapels and hems, later transitioning to white versions of these reconfigured shapes. Despite the intense styling with wigs and masks, the foundation remained firmly rooted in the principles of tailoring.
The Rise of 'Quiet' Craftsmanship
Another prevailing theme was the concept of 'quiet' clothing, where surface decoration was minimised to highlight hidden craftsmanship within the cut and construction. Kiko Kostadinov's collection exemplified this trend, focusing on clean coats and jackets with intricate folded panels, curved collars, and precise drape, predominantly in black and mineral tones. Details were deliberately concealed, such as buttons hidden behind plackets, allowing the garment's shape and movement to speak for themselves.
Formalwear with an Edge
The week leaned heavily towards formal dressing, but with a distinct, hardened edge. Watanabe's presentation set a serious tone with a café-table setting, a Miles Davis soundtrack, and a sombre cast. His sharply tailored black denim pieces, part of an ongoing collaboration with Levi's, were styled to resemble a modern uniform.
Louis Gabriel Nouchi pushed this concept further in an underground car park setting, accompanied by loud techno music and an 'Alien' theme. He juxtaposed sharp coats and dark tailoring with provocative, body-conscious pieces and graphic references, aiming to create clothing that functions in daily life while retaining a subversive charge.
A Call for Longevity and a Slower Pace
In an industry often criticised for its rapid pace, several designers explicitly advocated for slowness and durability. At Hermès, Nichanian included designs originally created decades ago to demonstrate their timeless relevance, concluding her show with the poignant message: 'Slow down.'
Similarly, White Mountaineering's designer, Aizawa, treated his final show as a long-view statement. The collection featured technical outerwear, bold colour, and careful pattern work, presented not as a transient trend but as the culmination of a significant 20-year creative chapter.
The Final Takeaway
Paris Men's Fashion Week did not conclude with a single, definitive look. Instead, it championed a cohesive mindset: men's fashion is embracing sharpness once more, but designers are redefining this sharpness for the modern era. Through innovative construction, commanding outerwear, and a commitment to creating pieces meant to last for years rather than months, the collections presented a forward-thinking vision for enduring style.
