In the orchards and gardens of Somerset, a centuries-old pagan tradition comes to life each winter as communities gather to wassail their apple trees. This movable feast, occurring in the weeks following Christmas, sees locals banging pots, swilling cider, hanging toast in branches, and shouting "wassail!" with joyous abandon. The practice, rooted in folklore, aims to thank the trees for past harvests and awaken their sap for the coming season, but as country diary observations reveal, there is no single way to celebrate this rustic ritual.
Contrasting Styles of Wassailing Across Somerset Villages
From sweet and charming gatherings to rowdy, spirited affairs, wassailing in Somerset showcases a delightful diversity of local customs. In Wiveliscombe, the event is tailored for families and children, starting and finishing early to create a gentle, accessible atmosphere. Organised by Brendon Orchards, a small juicing cooperative that ironically owns no orchard itself, this wassail is a pleasingly makeshift occasion. Participants gently pour apple juice at the base of trees and make a soft racket to rouse a mythical crone spirit, depicted with a spiderweb parasol and green velvet cape, who is believed to slumber in the orchard.
Wellington's Raucous Celebration with Morris Dancers and a Dragon
Just a few miles away, the Wellington wassail presents a starkly different vibe. Held in the Swain's Lane orchard and spilling into a nearby pub, this gathering is notably more boisterous. It features Morris dancing, a colourful dragon, and the eccentric local character known as Mr Double Danger the 2nd, adding a theatrical flair to the proceedings. Here, revellers take mouthfuls of cider and spit them onto the trees, while the cacophony of noise serves to scare away mawlscrawls—mischievous sprites thought to blight the next year's crop. This contrast highlights how each community infuses the tradition with its own distinct personality and folklore.
The Shared Intentions Behind the Wassailing Rituals
Despite these variations, the core purpose of wassailing remains consistent across Somerset. It is a heartfelt expression of gratitude to the apple trees for their bounty, with 2025 noted as an exceptional bumper year. The rituals are designed to fire up the sap and ensure a fruitful harvest ahead. Singing directly to the trees, rather than merely about them, reinforces a profound relationship between humans and nature, embodying a cycle of give and take. Offerings include toast for robins, considered lucky omens, libations for the roots, and the fruits themselves for juicing, all accompanied by the gift of song.
From Organised Events to Spontaneous Gatherings
The spectrum of wassailing extends beyond village contrasts to include highly organised events at commercial cider producers like Sheppy's, one of Somerset's largest, where ticketed affairs attract crowds. Yet, whether meticulously planned or spontaneously arranged, these celebrations share a common thread: they connect communities to their agricultural heritage and the natural world. The act of wassailing, with its blend of pagan roots and local innovation, continues to thrive as a vibrant testament to rural life in the West Country, inviting all to ponder, "How d'you like them apples?" as they partake in this timeless tradition.
