Veteran Cypriot fishermen are now hunting a dangerous new quarry in the warming waters of the Mediterranean: the invasive lionfish. Armed with nets and a novel culinary strategy, they are fighting to protect indigenous fish stocks and their own livelihoods.
The Unwelcome Invaders Disrupting Mediterranean Seas
For fishermen like 60-year-old Photis Gaitanos, fishing off the coast of Larnaca has fundamentally changed. Where he once reliably caught local favourites such as sea bream and red mullet, his nets now increasingly snare the stripy, venomous lionfish. This species, along with the toxic silver-cheeked toadfish, has migrated from the Red Sea into the Eastern Mediterranean, threatening to decimate native populations.
The problem is accelerating due to climate change. The European General Fisheries Commission for the Mediterranean states the sea is warming about 20% faster than the global average. This, combined with an expanded Suez Canal, has "opened the floodgates" to invasive Indo-Pacific species. EU Fisheries Commissioner Costas Kadis warns that more frequent extreme weather makes the Mediterranean increasingly hospitable to these intruders.
A Heavy Toll on Livelihoods and Ecosystems
The impact on Cyprus's roughly 150 professional fishermen is severe. Catches of traditional species have plummeted, while repair costs soar as powerful invaders like the toadfish shred expensive nets. Gaitanos, who inherited his father's boat in 1986, laments that he hasn't caught a red mullet in over two years. "Our income... has become worse every year," he told the Associated Press. "It is now a major problem affecting the future of fishing."
The invasion is spreading rapidly. Lionfish have been sighted as far north as the Ionian Sea, prompting Italian authorities to ask the public to report encounters. Models suggest lionfish could swarm the entire Mediterranean by the century's end if warming continues.
From Problem to Plate: A Culinary Solution Emerges
Facing this crisis, a multi-pronged response is underway. The EU has funded compensation schemes, including one paying fishermen €4.73 per kilogram to catch the inedible toadfish for incineration. The RELIONMED project, active since 2017, enlists scuba divers to cull lionfish around reefs and wrecks.
The most innovative strategy, however, aims to create a market for the invader. A social media campaign titled #TasteTheOcean, launched in 2021, promotes invasive species as a sustainable alternative. Top chefs and influencers are involved, with renowned Cypriot chef Stavris Georgiou creating his own lionfish recipe.
Tavernas in Larnaca are now cautiously introducing the fish. After its venomous spines are carefully removed, the meat—described as fluffy and tender—is served as part of a meze. Stephanos Mentonis, 54, who runs a popular fish tavern, says customers are often unfamiliar with lionfish but are pleasantly surprised. "When they try it, it’s not any less tasty than any other fish," he notes. A significant bonus is the price: at Larnaca's harbour fish market, lionfish costs less than half the price of popular sea bass.
Commissioner Kadis sees this as a vital opportunity: "By incorporating invasive species such as lionfish into our diet, we can turn this challenge into an opportunity for the fisheries sector and at the same time help limit the environmental threat." For Cyprus's fishermen, turning a ecological menace into a taverna delicacy may be key to safeguarding their ancient way of life.
