A prominent chef has shared a chilling story from his past to provide context for the recent debate surrounding a one-star food hygiene rating given to a world-renowned Welsh restaurant. The rating was issued in November last year to Gareth Ward's two-Michelin-starred restaurant, Ynyshir, located in Wales.
A Tale of Two Kitchens: From Horror Story to High Standards
In the wake of the rating, chefs across the UK have voiced their support for Ynyshir. Among them is renowned chef Alasdair Gill, who recounted a harrowing experience from his own career to illustrate that not all kitchen issues are equal. Writing in The Times, Gill described arriving for a 5am shift at a former workplace, which he called a "titan" of an establishment.
"I thought my brain was playing tricks on me. The floor was moving," he wrote, describing a scene of utter chaos. Upon closer inspection, he realised the floor was covered with dozens of mice, stuck alive on sheets of sticky tape. "Each night was a horror show," Gill added, noting that the problem was only addressed after multiple customer complaints about droppings.
Ynyshir's Defence: A Clash of Standards and Innovation
This stark account stands in sharp contrast to the situation at Ynyshir, which has been celebrated as one of the world's best restaurants since opening 13 years ago. Owner and chef Gareth Ward, a former MasterChef: The Professionals contestant, has publicly addressed the one-star rating.
Speaking to the BBC, Ward stated he was not embarrassed by the downgrade. He explained that inspectors raised concerns over his use of premium, raw ingredients. "I'm buying sashimi-grade fish from Japan and they're questioning, 'Well, we don't know the water, so how do we know it's sashimi grade?'" Ward said. He also cited his use of a salt chamber for ageing fish as a point of contention, suggesting the inspectors' rules did not align with his innovative techniques.
"I'm not at all ashamed but I am disappointed," Ward emphasised. "What we have done is something different." Following the inspection, independent laboratory tests found no issues with the fish used at the restaurant.
Moving Forward: Adjustments and Assurance
Ward conceded that the inspectors were "not 100% wrong" and confirmed that a new hand-washing station had been installed as a result of their visit. He vigorously defended the overall standards of his operation, highlighting his 27 years of experience and the restaurant's open-plan, immaculate kitchen.
"My restaurant is working at the highest standard in the world and we take what we do very seriously," Ward asserted. The incident has sparked a wider conversation about the interpretation of food safety regulations in high-end, experimental culinary environments, pitting traditional compliance against avant-garde practice.
