As the winter chill sets in, the call for hearty, comforting food grows stronger. For acclaimed chef Luke Selby, partner at Palé Hall in Gwynedd, north Wales, the season is about crafting dishes that offer warmth, connection, and a nod to local heritage. Drawing on childhood memories of fishing in Wales, Selby has shared two distinctive recipes designed to be cooked slowly and shared generously: a lighter, coastal take on the classic Welsh cawl and an indulgent, ale-infused rarebit.
A Coastal Twist on a National Classic
The first recipe reimagines Wales' beloved national dish, cawl, traditionally a meat and root vegetable stew. Selby's 'Cawl of the Sea' transforms it into a hearty seafood stew featuring undyed smoked haddock, leeks, and pearl barley. It's a dish that marries the soul-soothing qualities of the original with the fresh, delicate flavours of the coast.
Preparation takes 15 minutes, with a cooking time of just over an hour, serving four people. The process begins by gently sautéing leeks, garlic, and celery in butter until sweet. Pearl barley is toasted before being simmered in a base of dry cider and fish stock for 30-35 minutes. The haddock is then poached atop the barley before being flaked through the mixture with double cream, wholegrain mustard, and fresh dill. The result is a creamy, smoky, and deeply satisfying one-pot meal, finished with a drizzle of optional homemade dill oil and a squeeze of lemon for brightness.
The Ultimate Comforting Rarebit
For the second recipe, Selby turns his attention to another Welsh icon: Welsh rarebit. His version elevates this classic hot cheese snack into a show-stopping light lunch or supper. The key to its rich, complex flavour lies in the use of dark ale and a mature cheddar like Snowdonia's Black Bomber.
This recipe also serves four and involves creating a two-part delight. First, a sweet and sticky onion marmalade is slowly cooked down with brown sugar and cider vinegar. Simultaneously, a luxurious rarebit mixture is made by melting the grated cheese into warmed ale, Worcestershire sauce, and English mustard, before being bound with an egg yolk. The mixture is spread over grilled sourdough or ale bread that has been slathered with the onion marmalade, then grilled until bubbling and golden. Selby recommends serving it immediately with an extra spoon of marmalade and, fittingly, a pint of ale.
Celebrating Tradition and Produce
Both recipes are a testament to Selby's culinary philosophy, which celebrates simple, honest ingredients and local tradition. The seafood cawl offers a lighter alternative for winter, while the rarebit delivers unapologetic richness and nostalgia. They are designed not just to feed, but to foster quiet moments of connection around the table, acting as an ode to home kitchens and quality British produce. For anyone seeking to bring a taste of Welsh comfort into their home this winter, these recipes from a top chef provide the perfect blueprint.
