The Hidden Dangers of Gel Manicures: How They Weaken Nails Over Time
For many individuals, a gel manicure has become as routine as a haircut, prized for its durable, chip-free finish that can last up to three weeks. However, beneath the glossy surface and robust appearance, a critical question lingers: are these popular treatments actually harming our nails? According to Margaret Dabbs OBE, a podiatrist and founder of Margaret Dabbs London, the reality lies in a balance between the gels themselves and how we manage them once applied.
Understanding the Risks of Gel Manicures
"There are numerous horror stories associated with gel manicures," Dabbs explains, "including incidents from both salon and at-home treatments that have led to inflammation, increased sensitivity around the nail and cuticle, infections, and significant nail damage." She emphasizes that this damage often stems from the application and removal processes, the quality of products used, the impact of ingredients, and the technique employed by the therapist. In essence, gels are not inherently destructive; the harm typically arises from how they are applied, their composition, and, most importantly, how they are removed.
Why Gels Can Weaken Nails Over Time
Gel and 'builder in a bottle' (BIAB) manicures depend on thorough preparation. Nails are buffed to ensure proper adhesion of the product, then cured under UV or LED lamps. Removal usually involves soaking in acetone and scraping away softened layers. "Gel and BIAB manicures can weaken nails due to the preparation and removal process," Dabbs notes, "over-buffing, acetone use, and scraping strip natural oils and damage keratin layers, leaving nails thin, dry, and prone to peeling." When this cycle repeats every few weeks without interruption, nails lack the opportunity to recover, becoming paper-thin, sensitive, and brittle over time, a condition that can worsen with age.
How Often Is Too Often for Gel Manicures?
There is no strict rule for safe frequency, but problems often begin with constant back-to-back appointments without downtime. "To minimize damage, always have gels removed professionally, give your nails regular breaks, and nourish them daily," Dabbs advises. These breaks do not require a month-long hiatus; even a couple of weeks between sets can make a difference. During this period, hydration is crucial. Using a quality cuticle oil can restore flexibility and comfort to both nails and skin.
The Biggest Mistake: Peeling Off Gel Manicures
Few habits are more damaging than picking or peeling off gel polish. It may be tempting, especially when a corner lifts, but this action removes layers of the natural nail along with the product. Dabbs urges a gentler approach: "I recommend practising gentle nail care. Avoid aggressive filing, abrasive instruments, acetone nail polish remover, or metal gel removal techniques." Peeling might feel satisfying momentarily, but it leaves the nail surface uneven and fragile, making future adherence of gel or polish difficult and perpetuating a cycle of damage.
If removing gel at home, patience is essential. Thorough soaking and gentle easing of the product are safer than forcing it off. While regular exposure to acetone soaks is not ideal, visiting a trusted nail technician is often best. In salons, technique remains critical; rushed removal frequently causes the worst damage, so monitoring the process closely is important.
Safer Alternatives for Long-Lasting Nails
For those who appreciate polished nails but wish to avoid the wear-and-tear of gels, alternatives exist. Dabbs suggests upgrading basic tools: "Ditch emery board nail files and use a good-quality crystal nail file," she says, noting they promote healthy growth and prevent splitting or breaking. Hydration is equally vital: "Keep your nail bed and cuticles hydrated to maintain a healthy appearance and promote strong nails." When wearing polish, the base layer matters; opt for one that aids nail growth and strength.
Ingredient awareness also plays a role in healthier nail care. Dabbs highlights that many traditional nail formulas contain chemicals now rejected by experts, such as trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), banned in the EU due to safety concerns but not yet in the UK. By choosing safer products and adopting mindful practices, individuals can enjoy beautiful nails without compromising long-term health.
