Nail bars now outnumber banks on many UK high streets, but the soaring popularity of gel manicures has raised safety concerns. The European Union recently banned TPO, an ingredient that helps gel polish harden under UV light, after animal studies suggested it could harm fertility or a developing foetus. The UK is expected to follow next year. This follows restrictions on Hema, another common ingredient, in 2021 after a surge in allergic contact dermatitis cases.
Allergic reactions to acrylates, such as Hema, can cause rashes, pain, blisters, bleeding, itching, and changes in fingertip sensation, according to Dr Shari Lipner, a dermatologist at New York-Presbyterian Hospital. Once someone develops an allergy to one acrylate, cross-reactions can occur with dental fillings, medical adhesives, joint replacements, insulin pumps, and even false eyelashes or hair extensions.
TPO, a photoinitiator used in some gel polishes, poses potential risks to salon workers exposed daily. Research by Prof Runzeng Liu of Shandong University found photoinitiator levels in Chinese salon dust were about 100 times higher than in typical indoor environments, and levels on technicians' hands roughly 200 times higher than in the general population. Liu also warns of 'cocktail effects' from multiple photoinitiators.
However, Dr Kelly Dobos, a cosmetic chemist, notes that the EU ban was based on animal studies at high oral doses, not direct human evidence. The ban does not outlaw gel manicures, only polishes containing TPO, and safer alternatives exist. She advises finding salons that follow best practices, including proper curing, good ventilation, and trained professionals.
Enforcement remains a challenge. Scientists at Vito in Belgium have developed a test to detect TPO and Hema, and are contacted by companies checking imported materials. Jan Jordens, a senior researcher, says labels often do not match actual contents, especially for raw materials bought outside Europe.
