A celebrated chef at a two-Michelin-star restaurant in Wales has publicly defended his establishment after it received the lowest possible food hygiene score from safety inspectors.
The Inspection and the Rating
Ynyshir Restaurant and Rooms, which holds two Michelin stars and is described by the guide as a 'truly unique experience', was given a rating of one out of five following an assessment in November 2025. The inspection was carried out by officers from Ceredigion County Council on behalf of the Food Standards Agency.
The official report stated that 'major improvement' was necessary in two critical areas: the restaurant's food safety management procedures and the cleanliness and condition of its facilities and building. This rating places the high-end dining destination in the bottom tier for hygiene compliance.
Chef's Unapologetic Defence
Head chef Gareth Ward, who charges diners close to £500 per head for a tasting menu, stated he is "not embarrassed" by the result. He countered that his kitchen operates at the "highest standard in the world".
Ward claimed the low score stemmed from disagreements over specific culinary practices, rather than basic hygiene failures. He said inspectors questioned the use of raw, sashimi-grade fish imported from Japan and the restaurant's technique of ageing ingredients in a dedicated salt chamber.
"Our processes are about achieving unparalleled flavour and quality," a spokesperson for the chef implied, suggesting that innovative methods sometimes fall outside conventional inspection checklists.
Council Stands By Inspection Judgement
In response to the chef's comments, Ceredigion County Council issued a firm statement supporting its officers' work. The authority affirmed the professional judgement of its environmental health staff in applying the UK's national food hygiene standards consistently.
The council emphasised that all food businesses, regardless of their prestige or price point, are assessed against the same legal requirements to ensure public safety. They did not comment on the specific techniques mentioned by Chef Ward but reiterated that the rating reflected the conditions observed during the visit.
The case highlights the occasional tension between cutting-edge gastronomy and regulatory frameworks designed for all catering establishments. Diners and industry observers will be watching closely to see if Ynyshir makes changes to lift its hygiene rating while maintaining its Michelin-starred culinary innovation.
