High in the Bolivian Andes, professional climber Ana Lia González Maguiña prepares to conquer a 6,000-metre peak. Her essential kit includes a harness, rope, aviator glasses, and one unexpected item: a voluminous, hot-pink traditional 'pollera' skirt.
More Than a Skirt: A Badge of Identity and Strength
The bell-shaped pollera, with its layered petticoats, was originally imposed by Spanish colonisers centuries ago. Today, it has been radically transformed. Andean Indigenous women, known as 'cholitas', have reclaimed it, restyling it with vibrant local fabrics. It now stands as a powerful emblem of cultural pride in Bolivia, the region's only Indigenous-majority country.
Far from seeing the skirt as a hindrance, cholitas across Bolivia wear it while excelling in physically demanding, often male-dominated fields. "Our sport is demanding, it's super tough. So doing it in pollera represents that strength, it's about valuing our roots," said González Maguiña, 40, before the Huayna Potosi peak near La Paz. "It's not for show."
This sentiment is echoed by skirt-clad miners, footballers, wrestlers, and skaters. For them, wearing the pollera in all aspects of life is an act of empowerment. "We, women in polleras, want to keep moving forward," stated Macaria Alejandro, a 48-year-old miner in Oruro, her skirt marked by the dust of a day's underground labour. "I work like this and wear this for my children."
A Legacy of Change Under Threat?
This cultural resurgence was significantly bolstered during the era of Evo Morales (2006-2019), Bolivia's first Indigenous president. His government prioritised Indigenous rights, changed the country's official name to the Plurinational State of Bolivia, and elevated the Indigenous wiphala flag to national status. For the first time, ministers in polleras walked the halls of power.
However, a recent political shift has sown seeds of uncertainty. Last month, centre-right President Rodrigo Paz took office amid economic crisis, ending nearly two decades of rule by Morales's Movement Toward Socialism party. Disillusionment had grown, particularly under ex-President Luis Arce, who was arrested earlier this month on allegations of misusing state funds meant for Indigenous communities.
Many cholitas now fear a rollback of their hard-won gains, despite Paz's assurances. They point to a government with no Indigenous members, the army removing Indigenous symbols from its logo, and the decision to stop flying the wiphala from the presidential palace.
"I feel like the government won't take us into account," said miner Macaria Alejandro. "We needed a change... But it's sad to see there are no powerful people wearing polleras. I see it as discrimination."
Knocking on New Doors with Old Strength
Despite these anxieties, the spirit of resilience embodied by the pollera remains unbroken. The women who wear it have forged a new identity from a colonial garment, proving their capability in every arena. Their journey from marginalisation to the mountain tops is a testament to their enduring strength.
As climber Ana Lia González Maguiña asserts, the foundation for future battles is already laid. "We already have the strength and everything that comes with it," she said, looking ahead. "We're certainly going to knock on the doors of this new government." The pollera, once a symbol of imposition, is now their armour for the challenges to come.
