The iconic Grand Palais in Paris underwent a breathtaking transformation for one of fashion's most anticipated events, becoming an enchanted willow wood adorned with sugar-pink trees and whimsical, fairytale giant mushrooms. This magical setting provided the perfect backdrop for Matthieu Blazy's haute couture debut for Chanel, marking his third collection since taking the helm of the legendary fashion house.
A Dream Start for the New Creative Vision
Stepping into what is arguably the biggest job in global fashion, Matthieu Blazy continues to impress with a dream start at Chanel. The Belgian designer, aged 41, faced the daunting task of following in the footsteps of icons like Coco Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld at a house with annual sales approaching $20 billion. Previously little-known outside industry circles, Blazy's appointment last year raised eyebrows, but this haute couture presentation solidly confirms his rising star.
Rapturous Reception from Fashion Elite
The show concluded with a resounding standing ovation from an audience that included fashion titan Anna Wintour, actress Nicole Kidman, and pop superstar Dua Lipa. Backstage, veteran Chanel staff members were seen high-fiving in a rare display of unbridled enthusiasm, breaking from the industry's typically cool demeanour. Clients within the fantastical Grand Palais setting tossed luxurious sable coats aside to cluster for joyful, grinning selfies, signalling overwhelming approval for Blazy's fresh direction.
Innovative Designs with Traditional Touches
The collection opened with a reinterpretation of Chanel's classic boxy suit, crafted from tissue-thin mousseline rather than traditional tweed. This delicate fabric allowed the signature chain sewn into the hem to glitter under the lights and dance gracefully in the breeze. Highlights included a slip dress featuring ropes of gems as spaghetti straps, peeking from beneath a transparent jacket, and a birdcage earring enclosing a tiny pearl. A perfectly tailored little black dress revealed a surprise racer back framed by dramatic crimson feathers at the shoulder blades.
While the clothes showcase impeccable chic and heroic craftsmanship, Blazy's Chanel distinguishes itself through a palpable warmth towards the women who wear them. This was evident in the multigenerational and diverse casting of models. "Women who are more mature bring a completely different dimension to my clothes," Blazy explained backstage. "They are not just beautiful; they have lived, they are anchored, they have seen the world. It gives another dimension for the women who will buy the clothes, allowing them to recognise themselves on the runway."
Personal Stories Woven into Haute Couture
Blazy expressed his desire for his first haute couture show to be light and joyful, describing it as "an adventure" in a world he finds harsh. To infuse the collection with deeper meaning, he invited each model to choose something personal to be woven into their outfit. "Some chose initials, the birthdate of a loved one, or brought in a love letter or a line of poetry," he shared. While mostly keeping details private out of respect for intimacy, Blazy revealed that one model selected the word "kindness."
These personal messages were meticulously stitched inside the garments or onto fabric notes tucked into the pockets of quilted handbags by Lesage, Paris's premier embroiderers. This thoughtful touch added a layer of narrative and emotional connection to the exquisite pieces.
Pulling Off a Grownup Magic Trick
Prior to the show, the teaser trailer featuring animated Snow White bluebirds over Paris rooftops had sparked some scepticism, given Coco Chanel's aversion to anything overly cutesy. However, Blazy masterfully executed a grownup magic trick, blending whimsy with sophistication. His signature trompe l'oeil techniques, honed at Maison Margiela and Bottega Veneta, were evident in details like denim jeans that revealed themselves as painted mousseline upon closer inspection. "I love a tank top and jeans," remarked Blazy, who himself wore a Chanel quarter-zip sweater.
Other standout pieces included a raven-inspired dress with feathers crafted from leather, showcasing innovative material use. For now, Chanel under Matthieu Blazy is firmly in a fairytale era, enchanting the fashion world with a blend of tradition, innovation, and heartfelt storytelling.
