The world of high fashion is in mourning following the announcement that Valentino Garavani, the visionary Italian designer who built an empire synonymous with opulence and elegance, has died. He was 93 years old.
His foundation confirmed the news on Instagram, stating he passed away on Monday at his residence in Rome, surrounded by loved ones. It hailed him as "a true source of light, creativity and vision." The designer's body will lie in state at the foundation's headquarters in Rome on Wednesday and Thursday, with a funeral scheduled in the Italian capital for Friday.
A Legacy of Glamour and Signature Red
Known universally as Valentino, the designer founded his eponymous label in 1959 and swiftly became a cornerstone of Italian haute couture. His designs, celebrated for their luxurious fabrics and impeccable tailoring, attracted a legion of famous clients from the outset.
His first major clientele included screen icons Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor. He designed for Monica Vitti in the 1960 film La Notte and enjoyed a long sartorial relationship with Jackie Kennedy, who wore a Valentino wedding dress for her marriage to Aristotle Onassis in 1968.
Perhaps his most enduring symbol was the red dress. From his very first collection, which featured a red tulle 'Fiesta' dress, the colour became his trademark. The specific shade—a vivid hue between crimson and poppy—became so iconic it was officially recognised by colour authority Pantone.
An A-List Following and Lavish Lifestyle
Valentino dressed the world's most celebrated women for over 45 years until his retirement in 2007. His final haute couture show was a powerful statement, with every model walking in a version of his signature red.
His client list read like a who's who of late 20th-century glamour:
- Supermodels Naomi Campbell and Claudia Schiffer wore his creations off-duty.
- Actresses such as Julia Roberts, Penélope Cruz, and Laura Linney chose his gowns for red carpet events.
- Diana, Princess of Wales, was a client in the years following her divorce.
His extravagant lifestyle with longtime business and former romantic partner Giancarlo Giammetti was documented in the 2008 film Valentino: The Last Emperor, showcasing private jets, multiple homes, yachts, and their beloved pugs.
Building a Fashion Empire
Born in 1932 in Voghera, near Milan, Valentino trained in Paris under designers including Jean Dessès and Guy Laroche before launching his own label at 27. A pivotal white collection in 1962 cemented his reputation.
With Giammetti's business acumen, they grew the brand globally. In 1998, they sold the company for approximately $300 million. The label is now owned by Qatari investment fund Mayhoola, with Kering holding a 30% stake. Creative direction passed through several hands after his retirement, with former Gucci designer Alessandro Michele announced as the latest successor in 2024.
Tributes have poured in from across the globe. Italy's Prime Minister, Giorgia Meloni, called him an "undisputed master of style and elegance" and an "eternal symbol of Italian high fashion." While his precise views on modern fashion sometimes courted controversy, his legacy as a purveyor of dreamlike glamour remains unchallenged. As he once reflected, creating beautiful dresses was his singular, extraordinary gift.
