On a grey November afternoon, a group of nineteen people gathered in the shadow of St Buryan Church's imposing 92-foot granite tower in Cornwall. Their destination, however, was not the medieval parish church, but a far older place of contemplation: the remote Bronze Age stone circle known as Boscawen-Ûn.
A Modern Pilgrimage to Prehistoric Stones
Led by astronomer Carolyn Kennett, the walkers embarked on a 3.2-mile hike through Cornish fields. Kennett had chosen the date to coincide with the full moon, hoping to observe its light on the circle's unique leaning quartz stone. Though the overcast sky obscured the celestial view, the group's enthusiasm was undimmed. For most, this was a repeat visit to a site they consider profoundly sacred.
Cornwall is home to several such stone circles, with an estimated 800 scattered across the United Kingdom. While Stonehenge, aged between 3,500 and 5,000 years, attracts over a million annual visitors as a managed, ticketed site, Boscawen-Ûn offers a different experience. Nestled in emerald grazing fields with no defined road access, its 19 upright stones and single slanting pillar present a more rugged, intimate mystery.
"There is some sort of spiritual presence in these holy places," said Jane Weller, a walker from nearby Marazion. This sentiment reflects a broader national shift. A Pew Research Center survey highlighted that by 2020, the Christian share of the UK population had fallen below half to 49%, while the religiously unaffiliated rose to 40%. For many, ancient sites, folklore, and nature itself are becoming new sources of spiritual nourishment.
The Rise of Eclectic Spirituality and Paganism
The walk to Boscawen-Ûn revealed diverse motivations. Andy, a 55-year-old pagan from Penzance, held a handfasting wedding ceremony at the circle three decades ago. "I couldn't really worship in a church, in a sort of sterile environment," he explained. "I worship in nature." Modern paganism, encompassing traditions like Wicca and Druidry, was born in the UK from mid-20th century explorations of prehistoric sites. The 2021 census recorded 105,809 pagans and Wiccans, though scholars believe the true number is higher due to under-reporting.
However, not all engaged with the stones follow a formal pagan path. Scholars like Dr Suzanne Owen of Leeds Trinity University note a growing cultural engagement with this ancient past. Ethan Doyle White, a visiting lecturer at the University of Hertfordshire, describes many as 'eclectic pagans' or 'cultural pagans'—drawing on pagan imagery without actively practising a set tradition. Some walkers expressed scepticism about modern pagan rituals, aware that many practices are recent inventions, while others, like retiree Gail Charman, simply identify as nature lovers.
This public fascination is organised. In 2021, the Stone Club was founded in Cornwall, now connecting nearly 3,000 enthusiasts through walks, concerts, and exhibitions.
Connection, Mystery, and the Pull of the Ancient
Upon reaching the circle via a narrow, hedged path, the group fell quiet. The site was empty and still, save for birdsong and a forgotten wool hat. Some walked meditatively around the stones; Tamsin Floyd, a former nurse, embraced the central quartz pillar. "It feels supremely relaxing," she said. "I just like the feeling of connecting with our ancestors." Floyd and her partner plan to marry at Boscawen-Ûn the following July.
Kennett gathered the group in the circle's centre, sharing archaeological and astronomical theories. Was the leaning stone always slanted? Do carvings at its base represent axe heads or feet? The ultimate purpose of these megalithic formations, dating from the Neolithic and Bronze Ages (10,000 to 1200 BCE), remains unknown. Scholars posit ritual uses, perhaps for marking solstices or equinoxes, but with no written records from their builders, certainty is impossible.
As dusk descended, the group began their return trek across the fields. Their journey underscored a contemporary truth: in an age of declining traditional religious affiliation, the ancient, silent stones of the British landscape are speaking to a deep, growing need for connection, history, and a sense of the sacred rooted in the land itself.