The Collagen Craze: Can Supplements Truly Rejuvenate Your Skin?
Can dietary choices genuinely lead to radiant, youthful-looking skin? If you trust the pervasive advertisements and celebrity promotions for collagen in various forms—from pills and gummies to powders and squeezable sachets—the answer appears to be yes. Collagen, the body's most abundant protein, acts as a structural 'scaffolding' that provides strength and support to skin, muscles, bones, and connective tissues. It plays a crucial role in maintaining skin plumpness and hair vitality. However, as we age, natural collagen production declines, a process that contributes to wrinkles, sagging skin, and thinning hair.
The Science Behind Collagen Decline
Collagen levels typically peak around age 20, after which the dermis—the deeper skin layer composed of blood vessels and connective tissue—produces approximately one percent less collagen annually. Lifestyle factors can accelerate this loss. Smoking, excessive sun exposure to ultraviolet light, and poor dietary habits are all known to deplete collagen more rapidly, leading to thinner and less resilient skin over time. Given this, the allure of consuming our way back to the firm, radiant skin of our twenties is understandable.
On platforms like TikTok, thousands of videos promoting collagen powders, drinks, and capsules have garnered tens of millions of views, with creators reporting visible skin improvements after incorporating these products into their daily routines. The market offers two primary types of collagen: marine-derived from fish and bovine-derived from cows. Celebrities such as Davina McCall, a partner and user of the Ancient + Brave brand, specifically recommend their True Collagen powder for enhancing skin hydration.
The Critical Role of Vitamin C
In theory, ingested collagen is broken down into peptides—the amino acids that constitute protein—absorbed by the intestines, enters the bloodstream, and ultimately reinforces the body's internal scaffolding where needed. There are 20 types of amino acids; 11 are produced naturally by the body, while the remaining nine are 'essential' and must be obtained through diet, such as from meat, fish, or dairy. Regardless of whether you choose marine collagen (often touted for skin and hair) or bovine collagen (preferred for ligaments and tendons), one health expert warns that neither will be effective without sufficient vitamin C intake.
Dr. Oli Curwen, an aesthetics specialist from London, emphasizes: 'If we are going to use collagen supplements, we want to make sure that we're doing this as effectively as possible. Most collagen supplements don't include vitamin C; but taking collagen without vitamin C is a waste of money. You should either eat vitamin C with every meal, or take it at the same time as a collagen supplement to help the body to absorb it.' However, Dr. Curwen advises against vitamin C supplements—which can cost as little as 4p per dose—and instead recommends obtaining it from natural food sources like strawberries, kiwis, citrus fruits, berries, peppers, and leafy greens.
Evidence and Celebrity Endorsements
Vitamin C is fundamental to the pathways of collagen production and absorption; without it, the body cannot generate its own collagen or absorb it from external sources. Previously, BBC Morning Live reported that the collagen industry in the UK alone is projected to be worth £26–29 million by 2028. It is no surprise that celebrities renowned for their timeless appearances have embraced this trend. Amanda Holden, 55, serves as a brand ambassador for Revive Collagen, endorsing their Enhanced Plus liquid collagen formula for skin, hair, and nail health. Jennifer Aniston, 57, a longtime user and Chief Creative Officer of Vital Proteins, regularly adds their collagen peptides to her morning coffee or smoothies to support skin.
Some scientific evidence supports these claims. A 2023 review of 26 studies found that collagen supplements were associated with improvements in skin hydration and elasticity. However, Dr. Curwen remains skeptical about assertions that skin, hair, and nails transform within just two weeks of taking collagen. He explains: 'Collagen turnover takes about three months, so you're looking at a two to three month window before you're going to see any effect from taking the supplements.'
Recent Research and Practical Advice
The connection between collagen and vitamin C is undeniable. A 2025 study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology discovered that increasing dietary vitamin C intake delivers the nutrient directly into the skin, boosting collagen production and skin renewal. Researchers from the University of Otago's Faculty of Medicine in Christchurch Ōtautahi found that vitamin C levels in the skin closely mirror those in the bloodstream. While experts acknowledge that vitamin C supplements can be beneficial, Dr. Curwen believes consuming foods high in this essential vitamin is preferable.
'You can take a vitamin C supplement, but the supplements are often sold as 1000 milligrammes,' says Dr. Curwen. 'That's way too much, so all you're doing is producing really quite expensive urine because we just pee out the excess. You're better to eat about 30 milligrammes of vitamin C per meal.' Foods rich in vitamin C include citrus fruits like oranges or grapefruits, and vegetables such as broccoli or Brussels sprouts.
Dr. Curwen suggests an optimal skincare diet: a morning bowl of porridge with a scoop of collagen powder topped with vitamin C-rich fruits like kiwi or strawberries. Powders are not the only option; he notes that a chicken breast or piece of salmon contains roughly the same amount of collagen as a supplement. Additionally, he recommends incorporating zinc and copper to enhance the body's natural collagen production and absorption, which can be easily obtained from shellfish, nuts, seeds (such as pumpkin or cashew nuts), and dark chocolate.
