A renewed controversy is engulfing London's beloved Hampstead Heath, as plans to replace four longstanding family-run cafes with an Australian-inspired corporate chain have ignited fierce local opposition and drawn parallels to a similar battle fought nearly a decade ago.
History Repeats: From Benugo to Daisy Green
The current dispute, highlighted in a recent Guardian article by Rhiannon Lucy Cosslett, centres on the City of London Corporation's decision to hand leases to the Daisy Green group. This move has sparked fears that the heath's unique character is being eroded by commercialisation. Virginia Rounding, former chair of the Hampstead Heath management committee, reveals this is not the first such clash. In 2016, she voted against a proposal to take the Parliament Hill cafe from the D'Auria family and award it to the Benugo chain.
"The proposal was initially agreed by just one vote," Rounding recalls, leading to a predictable public outcry. The strength of local feeling was so potent that Benugo ultimately withdrew, and the decision was overturned after a full consultation. Rounding had hoped this experience would serve as a permanent lesson for the Corporation, warning against letting financial spreadsheets "trump every other consideration."
The Corporate Chain vs. Community Spirit
Despite Daisy Green's public stance that it is not a chain, critics point to its approximately 20 outlets and an annual turnover exceeding £22 million. As one reader, Don Keller from Harringay, argues: "It may not be Starbucks, but it's still a big corporate, and far from the friendly, family-run cafes that heath users value so highly."
The core grievance lies with the City of London Corporation, accused of transforming the heath from a public benefit into a revenue-generating enterprise. The corporation, facing financial pressures, seeks to reduce its funding allocation and maximise income from the heath's amenities. This strategy is seen as directly threatening the informal, community-focused atmosphere provided by independent operators.
A Call to Action and Cultural Echoes
Opponents are urging Daisy Green to follow Benugo's precedent and walk away from the contract. The sentiment resonates beyond North London, with readers noting a nationwide pattern of corporate takeovers displacing local businesses. The timing felt poignant to some; Bill McGinley from Chester noted the article's publication coincided with a BBC Radio 4 Extra repeat of a 1959 Hancock's Half Hour episode, 'Fred's Pie Stall', which comically tackled the enforced closure of a local institution.
The battle for Hampstead Heath's cafes underscores a wider tension between commercial efficiency and cherished community assets. As decision-makers weigh balance sheets, regular heath users and former officials warn that the true value of these spaces cannot be measured in profit alone, but in the unique character and sense of belonging they foster.
