A Journey into Cairo's Ancient Heart
"Keep moving," echoed a voice from the depths, as a long line of visitors navigated the narrow, ancient passageways, careful to avoid bumping their heads on the low-hanging rocks. With sweat beading on my forehead, there was no opportunity to pause for breath. Just moments earlier, I had been among the crowds admiring the Great Pyramid of Giza, the sole surviving ancient wonder of the world. Now, driven by perhaps excessive enthusiasm, I found myself inside this monumental structure.
Inside the Great Pyramid
Standing at over 140 metres tall, I had not fully considered what venturing inside would involve. Crawling up the narrow, damp shaft, where crowd management seemed nonexistent, I began to question my decision. The experience was intense! Despite being only about 100 metres from the entrance to the King's Chamber, it took a solid 15 minutes to reach it. Upon arrival, I stayed at ground level, catching my breath and gazing around at what was essentially an empty space. Aside from the stone sarcophagus of Khufu, the only other occupants of this small room were my fellow travellers.
I had harboured vague expectations of lavish, gold treasures, but these were plundered centuries ago. Cairo had always been a bucket-list destination for me, yet it appeared too daunting to tackle alone. I have learned that sprawling, chaotic cities often require professional guidance. Combined with its vast and complex history, this only reinforced that belief. Consequently, I joined a whirlwind tour of Egypt's ancient city with the expert-led small-group tour company Jules Verne.
The Layered City of Cairo
Cairo is not merely one city; it is many cities layered atop each other. Ancient monuments stand beside medieval mosques, colonial-era buildings, and modern apartment blocks. It is a city that simultaneously shouts and sings. The call to prayer resonates across rooftops, while crowded bridges over the Nile vibrate with the beeping of horns and the shouts of traders. With over 22 million residents, layers of history stretching back to biblical times, and streets that never seem to sleep, this formidable metropolis can feel overwhelming.
Enter Moustafa, an off-duty archaeologist and our guide for this short break. His knowledge of Egypt is unparalleled. From one heart-pounding experience to another—navigating Cairo's chaotic roads—Moustafa distilled 5,000 years of history into digestible nuggets until we reached our lunch destination. In a city of dust, this unassuming spot on Cairo's fringes turned out to be the upmarket Saqqara Country Club, set in an oasis of lush, palm tree-filled landscape, reminiscent of a James Bond film set.
The Grand Egyptian Museum
The newly opened Grand Egyptian Museum, hailed as the world's largest archaeological museum, was the starting point for my second day. Opened in November, the museum houses over 100,000 artefacts, including a full display of the boy king Tutankhamun's tomb for the first time since its discovery by British Egyptologist Howard Carter. Expected to be a major boost for Egypt's cultural tourism, we spent four hours here, also viewing the 4,600-year-old Solar Boat, built to represent the journey to the afterlife.
Discovered in 1954 at the corner of the Great Pyramid, this cedar wood structure is considered the oldest and largest wooden artefact from ancient Egypt, taking a decade to reassemble. Even the magnificent staircase leading to the exhibitions exudes grandeur, lined with statues of ancient kings and queens, with a huge window on an upper floor offering a perfectly framed view of the Giza Pyramids.
Highlights and Culinary Delights
This was followed by lunch aboard a traditional felucca sailboat, a personal highlight that Moustafa insisted we revisit on a "proper" Nile cruise. However, the standout experience was a tour spanning two millennia, from the Coptic Quarter to modern-day Cairo. Within the remnants of the Babylon Fortress, this compact district, often called Misr al-Qadima, features labyrinthine streets hiding Roman ruins, centuries-old churches, and a synagogue.
Christianity arrived here around 42 AD when St Mark founded the Coptic Orthodox Church in Alexandria, making it one of the oldest Christian denominations. By the seventh century, after a Muslim conquest, Coptic Cairo flourished as a Christian hub, with churches erected alongside emerging Islamic sites. Today, it symbolises religious harmony, where Egypt's first mosque, its oldest synagogue, and Roman fortifications sit mere steps apart.
Adorned with exquisite stone carvings and discreet doors opening into amazing spaces, it is hard to believe Cairo's bustling streets are just metres away. Moustafa regaled us with facts at every turn, sharing stories about trailblazing Queen Hatshepsut and warrior-king Rameses II, along with an in-depth discussion about Egyptian and Liverpool football player Mohamed Salah.
Cairo's street food ranks among the world's best, but it can be challenging to know where to begin. On our final morning, we headed to Khan el-Khalili bazaar to barter for last-minute souvenirs and enjoy a final taste of Egyptian fare. Thanks to Moustafa, what could have been an intimidating experience became exciting as we walked purposefully through narrow alleys, avoiding promises of the "best prices." He guided us to an unassuming eatery spilling onto the bustling street, where we sat outside, people-watching.
The owner insisted we sample what felt like the entire menu, serving a feast of Koshari (a mix of chickpeas, pasta, fried onions, and Egypt's national dish), Ful Medames (fava bean stew), and Ta'ameya (Egyptian falafel). When we protested we could eat no more, he returned with the creamiest rice pudding I have ever tasted—a sentiment echoed by the local cats.
A Once-in-a-Lifetime Experience
The Great Pyramid was a once-in-a-lifetime sight I had always longed to see, but what truly resonated in Cairo was the sense of history permeating every corner of this extraordinary city. Kirsty was a guest of Jules Verne.
How to Do It
Jules Verne's "Gems of Cairo: Pyramids & Museums" package starts from £1,725 per person with flights, based on two people sharing a room.
