After multiple journeys spanning several years, I have explored nine distinct Spanish cities. While destinations like Madrid, Seville, and Barcelona have their famed allure, it was two lesser-known cultural jewels that truly captured my heart with their profound history, breathtaking architecture, and unique atmospheres. Both are perfectly suited for a memorable winter escape and are conveniently connected by Spain's excellent rail network.
Toledo: The Ancient Hilltop City of Three Cultures
My first unforgettable discovery was the ancient city of Toledo, a short journey from Madrid. Described by Lonely Planet as "truly one of Spain's most magnificent cities," its impact is immediate. I visited alone during the off-peak season, encountering few tourists, which allowed the city's haunting, historical aura to fully envelop me.
Perched on a hill and encircled by the winding Tagus River, the initial view from the train is staggering. I initially mistook the river for a medieval moat guarding the old walled city. Toledo's deep history is palpable in its very stones; it was famously known as the 'city of three cultures' in the Middle Ages, where Christian, Muslim, and Jewish communities coexisted. This rich, layered past feels absorbed into the ancient walls and monuments.
The city is a living museum. You can find mosques, synagogues, and one of Spain's finest Gothic cathedrals within its confines. Its history stretches from a Roman foundation to an Arabic fortress. Key sights include the Puerta de Valmardon, the oldest city gate, and the remarkably preserved Cristo de la Luz Mosque, built in the year 999.
Córdoba: The Andalusian City of Flowers and Light
An easy train ride from Toledo (or less than an hour from Seville) leads to my next favourite: Córdoba. Nestled in Andalusia on the banks of the Guadalquivir River, with the Sierra Morena mountains as a backdrop, this city is a vibrant tapestry of nature, history, and life.
I visited in October when temperatures soared, but the city's atmosphere was undeniably captivating. Known as the 'city of flowers', its streets, monuments, and balconies are adorned with colourful blooms, particularly in the picturesque Calleja de las Flores. The city's heartbeat is the breathtaking Mezquita Cathedral de Córdoba, an architectural marvel that began as a mosque under Moorish rule before being converted into a Catholic cathedral.
Another standout feature is the Roman Bridge of Córdoba, which offered exceptional views and serene riverside walks. Fans might recognise it from its appearance in Game of Thrones. The city's charm is in its details: whitewashed and vibrantly coloured homes, unspoilt cobbled streets, and delightful local cuisine like the garlicky, tomato-based Salmorejo soup.
Beyond the Gems: A Tapestry of Spanish Travel
My journey through these cities was part of a broader exploration of Andalusia by rail, which also included vibrant Seville and the coastal city of Cádiz. Fringed by the Atlantic, Cádiz boasts incredibly fresh fried seafood and a wonderful central market with a genuinely local feel. The tolling bells of its cathedral and beautiful coastal strolls complete the experience.
It's worth noting another captivating city in the north-east: Girona. Less than an hour by train from Barcelona, its remarkable old town, Roman and medieval architecture, and its own Game of Thrones filming legacy make it a compelling detour.
In conclusion, while Spain is filled with famous and worthy destinations, the deep cultural immersion and stunning beauty found in Toledo and Córdoba offer an unparalleled travel experience. Exploring them by train not only provides scenic journeys through the Spanish countryside but also epitomises the rewarding adventure of discovering multiple, distinct places in one holiday.
